Brewzologist wrote:I installed the larger opening version chute from the "Hacking the DF64 exit chute" thread awhile back with my MP burrs. With that mod, for filter brew grind sizes I have no retention and no need to use bellows. For spro grind sizes I may get 0.1g retention and use the bellows similarly to Jeff's technique, but I don't discard the few fines I may get. (EDIT: zero on my DF64 is at burr chirp. Spro is ~8-10 and filter ~40'ish on the dial).

interesting.
do you rdt?
i dont rdt because i find it may messes beans humidity affect shot time, since im not good at spraying consistent amount. i did mod my clump crusher, and some beans do turns out more chaffs, but its not really messy, but do need some regular counter cleaning. my retention has been on the 0.1g at espresso, much much more without bellows. at 60+ (my brew settings) its probably around 0.2-0.3g fines. i sometimes skip those if i want a cleaner brew.
also using MP.

Yes I use RDT regularly for both spro and filter grinds. I use small misting bottles which are pretty consistent. Haven't noticed any effects on my shots.

I have had the DF64 for 6 months with TiN burr. Had no luck aligning it at all. I get terrible cups out of it compared to my old Fellow Ode that I gave to my cousin when my DF64 arrived. Just bought SSP multi purpose burrs. Trying to align this weekend.

try replace the clump crusher first.
i almost regret getting df64 until i did that.

@Brewzologist
thanks for the info.

Yes. I replaced the silicone useless declumper and put in one I bought they this forum. Much better. But with my alignment so far off my grind is always full of fines and boulders.

i didnt need to shim for alignment, but i did notice the top burr carrier only has 1 correct orientation that has best marker rub. so try check yours between those 3 possible position first.

after doing that i dont need to shim my ssp mp. on the other position i needed at least 1, and the other more than 3+ just to look okay, but not as good as the right position without shimming.
good luck.

Thanks again!! I tried all the positions as I went thru a YouTube video of how to align it. I never got to the point of adding shims, none of my 3 possible positions were even close. Today is my day to try out the SSP burrs!! If I need to I'll start shimming. Fingers crossed.

So I've had my DF64 for almost a year now, and immediately installed SSP HU burrs out the box, but I could never get 100% alignment or even close for that matter.

Then I decided to replace my top burr carrier with a new one from espresso outlet, and bought some rare burr gaskets I found on Etsy. I also got my torque screwdriver involved for the 2 long brass looking screws that go on the bottom of the grinder. It is important that those 2 screws are, if not exactly torqued the same, very close since it can mess with the alignment I recently learned.

Now I don't know if it was one of these 3 things or a combination but once everything was put back together I did my marker test and found my 100% wipe after 2 rotations of top burr with no shims. I was so excited it was kind of funny actually, mind you I'm obsessive, and had been at this for about 10 months trying every couple weeks to clean everything and attempt the marker test without getting close to 100%. I can definitely say a fully aligned df64 is way different than a 50% aligned df64.

Before I had it fully aligned I was grinding my coffee beans at around 5 or 6. With it 100% aligned, and using the same beans I'm now grinding at 18 or 19 on the grinders dial! That's a huge jump, also notice the grinds are so much more uniform obviously.

One major fact with this grinder that seems obvious but I must state, smash those springs. I always use a little tool to push down on the 3 springs with the rubber boot always at the bottom. It's so important that those springs are fully set down and even. My springs currently barely stick up above the chamber they're set in, for example, if I go to grab those springs my fingers barley grab the top. That also makes it to where when I put the collar back on, I don't have to push down, the collar hits the top burr carrier and I just lightly turn till the threads catch.

Sorry this is so long, but I needed to share since it changed everything for me, it's like having a brand new grinder. Most importantly is the difference in espresso taste!

Upper Burr Carrier: https://www.espressooutlet.net/turin-df ... der-parts/

Burr Gaskets:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1251632818 ... urr-gasket

LaNovice1982 wrote: I also got my torque screwdriver involved for the 2 long brass looking screws that go on the bottom of the grinder. It is important that those 2 screws are, if not exactly torqued the same, very close since it can mess with the alignment I recently learned.

this too. i forgot about i already, i think its buried in this thread somewhere, but it does affecr alignment. i opened my base few times to mod the declumper, it actually affect burr rub and coffee dial point by about 1 step so i had to update my list of beans settings. i dont use torque, but i tighten it to feel very similar. do this before doing the burr alignment.