Brewzologist wrote:Agree the screws on the base can affect the bottom burr. But can you explain the considerable effort needed to get it back in balance? I didn't experience any challenge there, unless I'm still unaware it's not right?!?

Unless you got the torque perfectly balanced, there's a good chance your bottom burr is lopsided and sitting at an angle.

But if I did a marker test and it was clean then I should be ok. Would think so!? How did you determine this happens? Would like to know how to test it.

Go back to pages 116 and 117

Brewzologist wrote:But if I did a marker test and it was clean then I should be ok. Would think so!? How did you determine this happens? Would like to know how to test it.

I feel the same way about this, maybe I'm also missing something. You align by doing the marker test and shimming. You take the base off to play around and according to some posts on here (I haven't done it so I can't speak to how off it will get) you can affect lower burr position when you put it back together. So then you do the marker test again and if it's off you re-shim.

heytchap wrote:Go back to pages 116 and 117

Sorry, don't see anything about lopsided burr tests there. I posted in those same pages where even the motor in my Niche basically floats on rubber mounts underneath the burr chamber. Perhaps this design is not uncommon which is why some grinders need shimming of the lower burrs.

As others have recommended, I apply light torque to the base screws; nothing fancy. This and a little shimming of burrs has made the DF64 rock solid for me. Given the size of the bearings in the DF64 it doesn't surprise me. But yes, if you mess with the base it may throw your alignment off, I just haven't experienced it.

That said I do have the stand-off's on order and will test to see what impact they have. As I also theorized in those pages you mention, it may well be that the design of the DF64 (and Niche?) relies on downward tension to keep the bottom burr seated. This isn't optimal given the DF64 doesn't use thrust bearings, but for the money it works quite well.

Half Caff, it's taken me nearly five months, but I've finally gotten my DF64 (with stock burrs) to produce shots as consistent and non-channeling as my Niche with the following mods/steps:

1) Grinding directly into the portafilter improved things a ton. Getting this custom machined collar ( ) allowed me to do so with minimal mess without RDT-ing.

2) WDT-ing with a proper tool (I use one made with four 0.3mm acupuncture needles) and tamping with the Normcore V4 leveling tamper cut squirting and misting significantly.

3) Modding to the Mythos declumper - and later removing the declumper entirely, leaving only a spacer - was key to minimizing rentention, regrinding and fines. I was happy with the Mythos until one recent bag of beans gave me trouble and I removed the Mythos as a test with no adverse effects other than a 5% increase in static. Again, the custom collar is critical to running a modded or no declumper without RDT-ing.

4) Lastly, a shift in my bellowing has resulted in much more consistent shot times. I used to very gently bellow during the grind. I've learned that that was a mistake. I now only bellow at the end. With other variables controlled, my shot times are as consistent as with the Niche.

Can anyone tell me where to purchase SSP Burrs from in the UK and what I should be paying please. The super jolly burrs who manufactures these mazzer? Are the mazzer burrs a cheaper option and would they provide the same clarity as the ssp burrs. I am still in the honeymoon period with my Solo , but I do like the results so far coming from a conical grinder. Thanks in advance .

I haven't found a source in the UK. The nearest is at https://homebarista.be/en but their shipping is extortionate. I'm just keeping an eye on US sellers & the SSP site to see when they are available & may order direct

Thanks for the reply . Have you tried directly contacting SSP ? I wonder what there minimum ship would be?