G-IOTA / DF64 espresso grinder - Page 116

Grinders are one of the keys to exceptional espresso. Discuss them here.
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Rice Bowl

#1151: Post by Rice Bowl »

In light of very recent developments, I may have sourced myself an MC4 local to me, so I'm almost surely going to cancel my df64 order and will likely post my Niche for sale here (once I hit the required post amount :mrgreen: )


#1152: Post by wmacarthur »

Hearing similar noise as others, maybe more severe. I have aligned my stock burrs (touch at -5), and am finding concerning noises when grinding coarser than very fine (above 30):
1) While the machine is running after grinding, if I adjust even a tiny amount finer, I hear what sounds sort of like burrs, but at least metallic. Even putting slight pressure on the right side of the dial gives these noises. After going finer and hearing the noise, moving back to coarser seems to be fine and no sound heard.

(I hope this works) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oS-_toPRJZo

2) If I turn the grinder off, it then becomes impossible to move more then a few ticks finer as something seems to be stuck (similar to above)

3) Once finished grinding and bellowing without adjusting, there is humming noise with the motor, to the point of when it turns off it spins down with a cyclical sound on spin down. If I adjust 5 coarser, turn on and off again, then no spin down noise.

I've taken it all apart, and my clump crusher screws are not extruding, and no sign of anything being "obviously" wrong...

From the videos around the web I've seen, this is not usual. Apart from being annoying and sounding awful, I am also sure it can't be good for the longevity of the grinder. I bought via Amazon a month ago (miicoffee) and do have a 1 year warranty. Has anyone solved this, or found that it is indeed a problem that can be sent in for warranty?


#1153: Post by Peter_SVK »

This behaviour is pretty normal IMHO, also for my Lagom. Despite it sounds metallic, the sound is caused by residual coffee particles remaining between the burrs. That's why the sound disappears once you dial coarser.


#1154: Post by canatto »

canatto wrote:Received my preorder today, 2 days sooner than the schedule, what a surprise.

First thing I did was detaching the base and taking a look inside. It confirmed what I thought to be the cause of the grind size changing after the base removal/re-install.

It is now clear that the two standoffs on the motor's lower endcap are not sitting on the base when assembled. They are hanging at least 1/4" off the base, actually 3/4" or 19mm off the base, reads my caliper. The tightness of the two screws does affect the lower burr position, because these screws put stress on the lower endcap that the lower bearing sits on.

(image to show the standoff, not my actual grinder)

The endcap does deflect.

I noticed that the out-of-box zero point is at exact 0 on the scale. Then at reinstalling the base with the two screws finger-tightened with a screw driver, the burrs would lock up at about 5 on the scale. Tightening a further 180 degrees the burr rubbing would take place a bit into the negative range on the scale.

I don't like it that the base mounting screws exerting an unknown, and possibly uneven as well, amount of stress to the motor endcap. I'll experiment with some spacers put between the standoffs and the base trying to bottom out the standoffs and see if they make any difference.

One thing is apparent, because the standoffs never bottom out on the base, without realizing it there can be this temptation of tightening the screws a bit more. We should use caution tightening these two screws. The lower endcap is not flimsy, made of cast aluminum it not very strong either.
I think I found a solution to the issue.
I ordered a pair of brass spacer off AliExpress, size M5x18mm.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001 ... 4c4dnXziWL

These go on the threaded standoff on the motor end cap, fill up the 19mm air gap towards the base, and bottom out on the base when all are assembled together, so that the tightness of the base mounting screws no longer affect the position of the motor end cap.

-- had to cut down and reuse the factory screws. Can't find a replacement M5 screw that has a head as small as that of the factory screw to go in the recess in the base.
-- it may be a good idea to use Loctite or epoxy on the standoff thread to prevent loosening by the vibration. But prior to that make sure the male thread goes all the way in, just in case. I did not use any of these material, and haven't noticed any loosening so far.
★ Helpful


#1155: Post by LObin » replying to canatto »

That's an excellent solution. Just ordered a set of brass spacers for mine.
I also noticed that my alignment was off after installing a Mythos clump crusher, even though I made sure to apply similar torque on both screws.

Thanks for sharing!
LMWDP #592


#1156: Post by mikelipino »

For Christmas I received the SSP MP burrs, and I got around to installing them last night. Easy work, just needed to make sure all the mating surfaces were spotless, didn't over torque the burr screws, and did a marker test alignment. It looked to be a 100% wipe that I couldn't believe, so I tested the other orientations and then repeated the best for another 100%. Replaced the dial face sticker to reflect the new zero point, ran 3 lbs. of Walmart 8 O'Clock Original Medium Roast (cheapest I could find, and made for decent enough drip this morning). I basically have a new grinder!

Running the stock steel burrs since June, I've quite enjoyed the filter and espresso from the DF64. Today I made my first V60 on the SSP MPs (med roast Honey Process Honduran), and wow it's like putting on glasses. I probably need 1-2 more attempts to dial in, but the V60 was so much more vibrant than on stock, which before would tell me it's a bit over extracted, but then finishes so cleanly. It really was a remarkable change. I have two other specialty roasts to try (and a few greens to home roast) but my initial reaction is that SSP MP is a solid upgrade for pourover.

I haven't yet run espresso, but I want to get another 3 lbs of beans through the burrs to further season them. In my notes for the stock burrs, when I tried to pull shots on unseasoned burrs, they were too spurty and inconsistent. But I understand that the increased clarity comes at the cost of body, so I'm curious to see how that changes by roast level. I also have a JX-Pro and Notte to back up for more traditional espresso.

One negative however, the grinder is significantly louder with the SSP MPs. Where the stock burrs had more low growl, the SSP MPs have a higher screech. Have you folks experienced the same?


#1157: Post by mbbrew »

Looks like two new burr options coming soon, the Gorilla Gear ones and the Option O Lab Sweet style burrs. Both seem to sit somewhere in the space between the SSP MP and HU. Almost makes me want two of the same grinder.


#1158: Post by mikelipino »

I also saw that the Ditting-style burr might be made by Option O, and that it would fit the DF64. That would be exciting because the Ditting version is reported to have better clarity than SSP without the hit to texture. But waiting on something still being developed would be so tough for me! Hey, once they come out, maybe it's upgrade ver 2.


#1159: Post by mbbrew » replying to mikelipino »

I've got the SSP Multipurpose now and am super happy with them, but always looking to try something new. SSP also posted these burrs on their instagram, which makes me think they are manufacturing them for Option O. I hope there is availability outside of ordering them with a P64.


#1160: Post by cap2 »

canatto wrote:I think I found a solution to the issue.
This is great solution. How long did it take these 5X18mm spacers to arrive?