Does anyone know where I could get the rubber boots that slip on the portafilter fork? I found the complete fork assy. for sale but don't see the boots alone anywhere.

If you want the "original" silicone boot, i have no idea where to find it, but maybe a search in some hardware shop for a silicone end cap, could eventually be a decent alternative.

Very interesting to read this.

Keen to see the results of your back-to-back testing, and looking forward to some photos as well..!

Hi all. I own the grinder since April and I tried all kind of things to improve it. Now that I reached the final form according to my needs I thought to share with you, maybe someone will find this useful. So, I 3d printed a antipopcorning device, a spacer, I took out one of the silicone piece and the one left for use I cut it as in the picture. The final result you can see it in a small video. I will attach some pictures, too.

First of all, as always, i'm speaking only about my own unit, so no panic
I did probably found out why there is a "better" position of the upper burr carrier.
It was an argument already discussed many months ago, so if it was already explained, i apologize.
The 3 springs has not the same length, and i just found out that the method suggested to push down the silicone tube that keep the springs could not be the best solution to get an even as possible springs elasticity, this at least in my own unit.
I did achieved a better result just cutting out few mm of each silicone tube, so i allowed the springs to not get too locked inside the tubes, with consequent different elasticity, in my case i think that the molding has not exactly the same size in the 3 sections where the springs get squeezed in by the silicon tube.
I was recently hearing some intermittent sound while the burr was rotating without grinding any beans, and i thought that there was a slightly axial movement of the upper burr carrier while the lower burr was running, and the sound was persistent even if i was rotating to coarse, so it were not the burrs touching.
Considering i removed many times the dial ring and the upper burr carrier, i probably moved a "stabilized" condition.
I have to say that i got very irregular result day by day so i hope now i could began to see some more regular result, the first immediate effect is that i don't need to push down the upper burr carrier to engage the dial ring thread, if is better or not i will see in the next day.

Giampiero wrote:... The 3 springs has not the same length, and i just found out that the method suggested to push down the silicone tube that keep the springs could not be the best solution to get an even as possible springs elasticity, this at least in my own unit...

From the principle of construction and functionality, if the spring preload is enough to push the upper carrier against dial collar, it doesn't matter, if they are equal in length, even in preload, elasticity, etc, IMO.

Yes, right.....on the paper, but in the reality, i'm speaking about a grinder, in my hand, with different construction design than a mazzer or fiorenzato, ( i mentioned them due to the similarity in the upper burr carrier design), the DF64 dial ring has a tolerance that allow the upper burr carrier to slightly "wobbling" ( probably mine has passed many "operations" so more prone to develop such behavior) so IMHO, if one or 2 springs has a different force than other, it could misalign the whole upper burr carrier.
That's why many months ago i even tried to shim the 3 springs to give them an higher preload to see if was enough to eliminate the above mentioned wobbling possibility, but i gave up due to i was more worry to over stress the dial ring thread, and the contact surface between the upper burr carrier and the dial ring itself.

Peter and Giampiero, This topic brings up something that I have seen happen with the upper carrier and the collar. Every so often I get a slight burr noise after the beans are gone. I usually solve by putting some rotational pressure on the upper burr and it goes away. the outside of the upper burr has concentric ridges from the machining. It would not be surprising if those cause some "grabbing" on the collar if it moves. My plan is to sand it smooth, but I have not had time. I am also considering putting Teflon on the vertical part of upper burr where the collar hits it when attached.

Slight burrs noise after the beans are gone may be also caused with residual bean fragments left between the burrs - I noticed that in Lagom too if adjusted empty grinder towards fine.
I think stainless steel shim/washer would be better than Teflon one, Teflon is a bit soft. Lagom (2nd batch) use thin ss washer, see the picture (if I understood correctly your desired purpose).

Recently order a DF64 from espressooutlet during their black Friday sale. Excited to finally move onto flat burr home brewing, the Niche is great but just doesn't deliver the sort of clarity I desire.