Fiorenzato T80 grinder -- how to change burrs?
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- Posts: 2
- Joined: 18 years ago
Just got one of these grinders used and it works great! The first shot was unlike anything I've pulled before... I am still working on my techniques.
While the grinder is in very good shape, I am curious as to how one goes about getting to the blades (it must be obvious, but still eludes me).
Anyone know how to get to them?
While the grinder is in very good shape, I am curious as to how one goes about getting to the blades (it must be obvious, but still eludes me).
Anyone know how to get to them?
- HB
- Admin
- Posts: 22031
- Joined: 19 years ago
EspressoParts.com has a diagram of the Fiorenzato T80. The burrs are labeled "MC11". Based on the diagram, it looks standard enough: Unplug it, remove the safety stop screw from the upper burr carrier / adjustment collar (it prevents the user from adjusting the burrs too far apart and potentially unscrewing the burr carrier), then unscrew the burr carrier in the same direction as adjusting the burrs coarser (it may be reverse threaded and clockwise = loosen).
Cleaning a Mazzer Mini shows pictures that will look familiar; I think that the instructions in Cleaning the burrs of a Macap M4 Stepless Grinder will be a little closer to yours since the Fiorenzato appears to have the same type of screw-in burr carrier as the Macap without the spring tensioners of the Mazzer.
Once you get the carrier off, you can remove the burrs by removing the screws. For the bottom one, I press against the side of the burr using a second flat blade screw driver to hold the burr stationary while loosening the burr's screws.
Mazzer Mini lower burr
Cleaning a Mazzer Mini shows pictures that will look familiar; I think that the instructions in Cleaning the burrs of a Macap M4 Stepless Grinder will be a little closer to yours since the Fiorenzato appears to have the same type of screw-in burr carrier as the Macap without the spring tensioners of the Mazzer.
Once you get the carrier off, you can remove the burrs by removing the screws. For the bottom one, I press against the side of the burr using a second flat blade screw driver to hold the burr stationary while loosening the burr's screws.
Mazzer Mini lower burr
Dan Kehn
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- Posts: 2
- Joined: 18 years ago
Thanks for the quick reply. I think the important detail I overlooked was "remove the safety stop screw." I was almost tempted to go in through the bottom but decided it was not the right way to go.
I am also avoiding spending too much time with it at the moment as I am writing for my exams. Nothing like fiddling with coffee making machinery to pass away the time... even if my research is focused on coffee.
Back to writing...
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update: I did not find a safety stop screw as there isn't one. It seemed that the only thing one needed to do was to unscrew it all the way to remove the upper burr carrier/adjustment collar. What turned out to be the problem was that from lack of cleaning, the congealed oily coffee residue had built up to the point that it made it impossible to remove the adjustment collar past a limited range (what seems to be the normal operating range).
As I was unable to remove the adjustment collar to access the burrs, so I decided to get a auto filter wrench (yeap, needed to wield that much force to make it budge and be able to remove). Once removed I was able to see that the burrs were a bit warned, but still usable (I am waiting for replacements), but the build up was so significant that I had to use a stiff plastic spatula and a dental tool to clean all the residue--it almost seemed like a layer of Bakelite coated much of the interior. Now it is clean and working quite well. I am glad I got the grinder and would buy it again from eBay, but one needs to keep in mind that one gets what one pays for. Also, the importance of keeping the grinder clean has been driven home from this experience.
On order are: a set of burrs, a stiff narrow paint brush, and a couple of packages of grinder cleaner. Hate to think what the espresso machine these people sold looks like inside the boiler.
I am also avoiding spending too much time with it at the moment as I am writing for my exams. Nothing like fiddling with coffee making machinery to pass away the time... even if my research is focused on coffee.
Back to writing...
---------
update: I did not find a safety stop screw as there isn't one. It seemed that the only thing one needed to do was to unscrew it all the way to remove the upper burr carrier/adjustment collar. What turned out to be the problem was that from lack of cleaning, the congealed oily coffee residue had built up to the point that it made it impossible to remove the adjustment collar past a limited range (what seems to be the normal operating range).
As I was unable to remove the adjustment collar to access the burrs, so I decided to get a auto filter wrench (yeap, needed to wield that much force to make it budge and be able to remove). Once removed I was able to see that the burrs were a bit warned, but still usable (I am waiting for replacements), but the build up was so significant that I had to use a stiff plastic spatula and a dental tool to clean all the residue--it almost seemed like a layer of Bakelite coated much of the interior. Now it is clean and working quite well. I am glad I got the grinder and would buy it again from eBay, but one needs to keep in mind that one gets what one pays for. Also, the importance of keeping the grinder clean has been driven home from this experience.
On order are: a set of burrs, a stiff narrow paint brush, and a couple of packages of grinder cleaner. Hate to think what the espresso machine these people sold looks like inside the boiler.
- Clint Orchuk
- Posts: 505
- Joined: 13 years ago
Hi. I'm new to the forum. I just picked up one of these grinders from a restaurant that was going out of business. I've taken it apart and it's soaking in TSP. It was unbelievably filthy. I'm having the same problem getting the adjustment collar off to access the burrs. It's reverse threaded. I can loosen it a turn or so and then I run into the gunge in the threads that stops if from loosening any further. I'm also using an oil filter wrench to try to get it off. I only get so far and then it's too hard to turn. Any tips? Can I shoot something down the threads to dissolve the residue? It's tough to use the wrench too because the step adjustment gets in the way. Any help is much appreciated.
Clint
Clint
- Clint Orchuk
- Posts: 505
- Joined: 13 years ago
I finally got it off. I turned the grinder upside down and soaked it in about an inch of TSP solution. It worked its way into the threads and after a few soakings, I was able to unscrew the adjustment collar and access the burrs. What a mess.
- stefano65
- Sponsor
- Posts: 1405
- Joined: 17 years ago
be very very careful once you re-assemble it
the T-80 has very fine
ALUMINUM thread on the body and brass on collar the body one gets cross threaded very easily
the T-80 has very fine
ALUMINUM thread on the body and brass on collar the body one gets cross threaded very easily
Stefano Cremonesi
Stefano's Espresso Care
Repairs & sales from Oregon.
Stefano's Espresso Care
Repairs & sales from Oregon.