Fellow Ode - Stripped screws, any advice? (Also related: is it possible to damage installed burrs in any normal use?)

Grinders are one of the keys to exceptional espresso. Discuss them here.
dsc106
Posts: 549
Joined: 4 years ago

#1: Post by dsc106 »

I have a Gen 1 Fellow Ode with SSP CV Burrs (rev 2) installed. I tried to open up the grinder to do some cleaning, and two of the large screws holding in the main plate have stripped. Both screws are on the right side.

I felt that I have been relatively careful but apparently not careful enough. These don't seem like terribly high quality screws as I very rarely strip a screw. Not saying I did this optimally, but here I am.

When I noticed the stripping last time, I ordered some replacement hex screws - but unfortunately it was too late. I was going to replace the screws this go around, but this time, when I tried to get them out and what was remaining of the threading gave way. I have tried the rubber band and tape tricks to no avail.

I have replaced all the other screws with hex screws, except the two large right side screws. Questions are as follows:

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1. Is there any good way to get these two screws out without destroying the grinder and/or damaging the SSP burrs inside?

2. Because apparently the right side screws may have been screwed too tightly, I am worried there is uneven pressure on the plate and thus the burrs inside. Is it possible to damage the installed burrs? Here are a couple reasons for that concern:
  • (A) When the grinder starts, it very often does a sort of aggressive jolt/shake on the first start up, then seems to run normal. I have another ode with SSP MP burrs and it does not ever jolt/jump like this on start up.

    (B) The grinder makes a different kind of noise that can sound like a minor clicking. It does not sound like the burrs rubbing together when they hit chirp, but it makes a noise that my other Ode with SSP MP does not make. It makes me wondering if the auger key might be slightly misaligned or something.

    (C) I tend to get some oddly inconsistent brews from time to time. For example, this morning I brew on the hario switch two times in a row, same bean, same grinder setting. The first time, after immersion, I had a draw down of :50 seconds. The next time, a few minutes later with no changes, the draw down was 1:45 seconds. Over double. But also strange, the second brew with longer draw down tasted great, so I guess no concern, I was just rather confused how I get such a different draw down time.
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I realize there is a lot there. Any help or insight as to how to fix my predicament, and if there is anything to worry about with damaging the burrs, would be helpful.

As a quick aside, I am wondering if there really is anyway to actually damage the burr geometry at all, or if it would merely be the outer edges of the burrs touching if something were misaligned or too tight?

Thanks!

maximatica
Posts: 159
Joined: 18 years ago

#2: Post by maximatica »

I have two suggestions, but I do not want to type them out if you have already sorted this screw problem out.

Post back if you still need help.

dsc106 (original poster)
Posts: 549
Joined: 4 years ago

#3: Post by dsc106 (original poster) »

I have not sorted out the problem, help would be appreciated!

AnotherADDiction
Posts: 161
Joined: 1 year ago

#4: Post by AnotherADDiction »

Would a stripped screw extractor (drill bit) help?

Jonk
Posts: 2201
Joined: 4 years ago

#5: Post by Jonk »

That's a bummer. And I agree, I've always been a bit anxious to fiddle with the Ode because it seems like something like this could easily happen.
dsc106 wrote:(A) When the grinder starts, it very often does a sort of aggressive jolt/shake on the first start up, then seems to run normal. I have another ode with SSP MP burrs and it does not ever jolt/jump like this on start up.
This happens on my Ode as well. Not all the time and just for a split second. I dunno, I guess it's normal?

B and C is perhaps more concerning. Do you use RDT? Otherwise that could be the explanation for C.

I'd be surprised if there was any risk of damaging the burrs.

dsc106 (original poster)
Posts: 549
Joined: 4 years ago

#6: Post by dsc106 (original poster) »

maximatica wrote:I have two suggestions, but I do not want to type them out if you have already sorted this screw problem out.

Post back if you still need help.
Not sure if you saw my response so I'm quoting you :)

joshlee
Posts: 11
Joined: 4 months ago

#7: Post by joshlee »

dsc106 wrote: 1. Is there any good way to get these two screws out without destroying the grinder and/or damaging the SSP burrs inside?
Assuming that you have stripped the bolt threads and not the bolt head:

1. Try to use straight snap ring pliers that spread when applying pressure and carefully rotate the bolts counter clock wise while applying a gentle pulling force

2. Try to use some glue (silicon based or jb weld probably works best) to glue in your hex/allen driver but. after curing rotate the bolts counter clockwise and apply a gentle pulling force.

If you have however stripped your bolt head,

1. Try snap ring pliers same as above

2. Try to use glue same as above

3. Square out your inset hex to a square and use a square bit (or slotted driver that snugly fits in diagonally)

4. drill and tap a new reverse thread in the center and use a high tensile strength with reverse thread (or special bolt remover but) to screw out your stripped head screw

5. tig weld a regular hex bolt to your bolt head