Eureka Specialita: risky to operate with a loose burr?

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#1: Post by Matt44 »

Hi all - I think I know the answer to this question, but throwing it out there...

After cleaning my Specialita, I noticed that one of the tiny screw sockets on the lower burr is stripped. The two other screws fasten with no problem, but the third just spins in place (I tested all the screws in the same socket, to confirm it's not the individual screw).

Is it risky to still operate the grinder with this issue? With the two remaining screws fastened in place, the lower burr "seems" secure. Not an engineering person myself, so I'm curious what risks are in still running the grinder. Does it basically require a new burr set?

Thanks for any input!

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Randy G.

#2: Post by Randy G. »

I could not find a parts diagram for that particular grinder, but other Eureka grinders I saw would lead me to believe that the lower burr is not threaded. The screw would presumably go through the burr and thread into a carrier mounted to a part connected to the motor (or gearbox?) shaft.

If that is true, then you have to assess how that carrier is mounted to the motor and find that part.
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Team HB

#3: Post by Jeff »

I can think of at least two reason not to. The first is that the screw may come loose and trash your burrs. It doesn't have to come out entirely, just rise up high enough to hit the other burr. The second is that the burr would be held down unevenly, potentially resulting in poor alignment and non-uniform grinds.

It is probably the lower-burr carrier that has the threads in it, not the burr. I have not been able to find a parts diagram that shows the one for the 55 mm Specialita.

Matt44 (original poster)

#4: Post by Matt44 (original poster) »

Thanks for the replies! Tested the screw sockets on the carrier (without the lower burr in place) and one is definitely stripped. But not completely. Seems like only the top threads of the socket are bare, because the screw eventually fastens in place. But with the burr inserted, the screw doesn't catch. So frustrating!

Seems like this requires a way bigger repair than new burrs. Any last resort suggestions? Is a slightly longer screw feasible? Thanks again for the help!


#5: Post by Giampiero »

few years ago i did got new burrs for the Specialita', but the burrs holes does not match with the carrier threads positions ( my Specialita' is an early released model), so i just made new holes/threads in the burrs carriers.
Maybe it's the easiest solution unless you want to buy a new burr carrier.

Matt44 (original poster)

#6: Post by Matt44 (original poster) »

Giampiero wrote:... i just made new holes/threads in the burrs carriers.
Maybe it's the easiest solution...
I'd give this a shot, but I don't have the DIY skills (and am not a brave person). But thanks for the suggestion!

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#7: Post by bostonbuzz »

You can just get a longer bolt if it does indeed thread. I find stripped screws (in aluminum) seem like they're threading but they are just cross threading and not strong. Nothing special about the bolts. Just carefully measure the size and go to mcmaster-carr and order ones a little longer.

The second easiest would be to use a helicoil kit. Drill and tap oversize, then put in the helicoil which will reduce it back to the size you want. This would be plenty strong and much easier than drilling and threading 3 new holes.
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#8: Post by palica »

I think that whatever you are doing, you need to fix it first, and make sure you do not unbalance the lower burr holder. If you put longer bolts, then change all 3 bolts. Not sure an Helicoil is an option since it will unbalance the burr holder and your grinder may vibrate. And considering you are not a DIY, forget the Helicoil or Timesert, the "drill-larger-and-tap" and change the burr holder: it is the simplest safest solution IMO.


#9: Post by Oskuk »

palica wrote: a) the "drill-larger-and-tap"
b)change the burr holder: it is the simplest safest solution IMO.
Yes, go to repair-shop for new holes: bigger or in diff place, or just order new lower carrier.