Ditting 807 Lab Sweet user experience - Page 47

Grinders are one of the keys to exceptional espresso. Discuss them here.
knumph
Posts: 68
Joined: 7 years ago

#461: Post by knumph »

I think sprometheus actually has a good channel. He does a solid job breaking down gear, and he is not afraid to dismiss hype as hype. He is also in decent company regarding his skepticism toward seasoning, Scott Rao also shares these views I believe

maxmaut
Posts: 41
Joined: 3 years ago

#462: Post by maxmaut »

I have finally aligned the burrs on mine. Started with top, ended up with a paper shim for now as there was no other material of a required thickness at hand. Took me a while to figure out where to precisely place it, every 5 degrees of moving it was resulting in different touching pattern.

Once I had the top burr aligned I went on to test the bottom burr, and it was perfect straight away, no alignment required whatsoever. I did take it out in the past for cleaning, so I guess machining tolerances are spot on from the factory with the bottom carrier on mine.

Next I decided to set 0 to burrs almost touching. I marked factory 0 in case I decide to go back. I was really astonished to find out that my 0 is at minus 2.8 according to marks on the adjustment wheel. There is a whole 84 degrees of turning between factory 0 and when the burrs touch. 84 degrees! That's crazy!

I suspect those who have problems grinding fine enough for SOE might have same factory alignment as I did.

There are 60 teeth on the alignment wheel, so your degree of precision for setting new zero mark is very coarse - 6 degrees.

So my zero is 4-5 degrees away from burrs touching. Even at this setting whatever comes out of the grinder is just powder. I brewed turkish at that grind setting and it was way too fine, I stepped up to around 2.2 to get a result I liked. I am not claiming I know how to brew good turkish though, so take this with a grain of salt.

I can of course take the top burr off, go past burr touching point on the wheel, and have those 4-5 degrees back. Then burrs would touch at say, not zero, but like 0.3 mark, and you'd have the rest of the range for your ultra light SOE, but I see no point doing that since it's going to be too fine anyways.

My opinion is that burrs are capable of going so fine it's unusable, while factory alignment limits that. Still not a favorable outcome for Ditting and their QC, but it's at least fixable.

Worst thing about this is that all my recipes now require mental gymnastics, I have to calculate where the new setting is for each of my favorite coffees. My columbia was at 6.2, now it's supposed to be at 9.0. My Ethiopia was at 7.25, now it should be at 10.05.

But what's even worse is that I was expecting that I'd get faster drawdown at same settings (because I am now aligned so less fines?) but it's the opposite, my drawdown for a one cup v60 is plus 15 seconds. I have to dial-in again for all my coffees it seems, and it puzzles me why.

gavijal
Posts: 53
Joined: 2 years ago

#463: Post by gavijal »

Problem is that Ditting doesn't produce 807 anymore. Now they are produced by a Malkoning.

Marin69
Posts: 2
Joined: 2 years ago

#464: Post by Marin69 »

I found this thread AFTER I ordered the Ditting 807 Lab Sweet, needless to say I was concerned at that point because even though Prima accepts returns with no restocking fee, you have to ship it back on your own dime and it's a very very heavy grinder and I put this thing in my cart without pulling the trigger a few times because there are MANY options at this price point, you can have almost anything you want....after using it for a few weeks for espresso and pour over I have thankfully had no issues and I've not only enjoyed the coffee from it, but the results have been very consistent for me, even with a low volume of coffee relative to the seasoning recommendations for the burrs. I also have a Niche I've used for 2-3 years for espresso only and for pour over I was using an Ode with SSP burrs that I put in myself after being very unimpressed with factory burrs, I found it to be sometimes excellent but pretty inconsistent; after a few tries with less expensive than LS but still nice grinders to replace the Ode, I decided to buy the Ditting after reading some user reviews. The commercial nature of the machine, the low retention (which is remarkable for a grinder this size) and low frills design sold me. I didn't want to wait for a P100 and although I think it looks really amazing it's pretty flashy, the LS is massive but it's also simple. I initially didn't plan to use it as much for espresso as pour over but now that I've been playing around with it I think it will be used often for espresso. I still like the Niche but it is a really different profile vs the LS. I also respect and like some of the same utilitarian qualities of the Niche.

So far I've been using a 1.2 setting for Verve Sermon Blend and a 1.1 for a light roast Ethiopian (2 on scale of 10) with very very good results on Decent with one of the lever profiles. The lighter roast Ethiopian was far more finicky but it's also way more finicky with the Niche I've used prior to the LS. For V60 Pour over I am almost dead on at 3 minutes using lighter roasts and the coffee is very very good, setting is 7.0. I would also verify many users that report really lovely coffee when it isn't perfect as I dialed in my settings but now that I have a read on what works for me I am getting 1:2 shots that are dead on with extraction, flow and timing to my taste.

Oddly I seem to be higher than some for pour over and lower than some for espresso but because I like the results so far I don't plan to touch anything and dial it in. I'm hesitant to mess with the factory settings based on some user experience and although I admire the bravery of some owners that tweak this thing I'm more inclined to not mess with a good thing even though it could be better theoretically until I've put 30-40 lbs through it. That said I am on the bottom of the scale so if I find that changes I would reset the dial at the zero point because I am not touching at the bottom end.

Two finishing thoughts:

*There were a few posts on this thread about making sure the grinder is running when changing settings as not to mess with calibration, I think that is so important because most home users are going to bounce around in the settings more than a commercial setting and it could easily be a reason some people have had problems but it could also really be variation but although there are some rightfully super unhappy users out there after spending on $3k+ on a coffee grinder I am really really happy so far. As many have mentioned this is pretty bespoke equipment, even Ditting vs Lagom or Titan is still like buying a Ferrari vs a Bugatti, etc so I am not too surprised in the variation and fine tuning but I am a little surprised that Ditting seems to be fairly unsupportive although they are also likely surprised home users are even buying this thing

*If anyone has the info for the person in Germany that is making the Single Dose Hopper Mod for the 807 LS or anyone else in the US that has made one I would love to have it. I don't mind the height of the stock LS too much but if it were lower profile I would like it more

pntz
Posts: 10
Joined: 2 years ago

#465: Post by pntz »

Marin69 wrote:*If anyone has the info for the person in Germany that is making the Single Dose Hopper Mod for the 807 LS or anyone else in the US that has made one I would love to have it. I don't mind the height of the stock LS too much but if it were lower profile I would like it more
nahawedere on kaffee-netz.de. Messaged on that forum; super great to work with. PayPal and a DHL tracking number later, and it was on my doorstep in Oregon in a few weeks. Doesn't address the hopper interlock, but that's easy enough to do on one's own. The exterior conforms well to the shape of the grinder. It has made cleaning a bit easier (fewer nooks to clean out), removes the one shiny/reflective bit on the grinder, and works as expected; it doesn't revolutionize workflow, but a small upgrade from stock for single dosing.

gavijal
Posts: 53
Joined: 2 years ago

#466: Post by gavijal »

maxmaut wrote:I have finally aligned the burrs on mine. Started with top, ended up with a paper shim for now as there was no other material of a required thickness at hand. Took me a while to figure out where to precisely place it, every 5 degrees of moving it was resulting in different touching pattern.

Once I had the top burr aligned I went on to test the bottom burr, and it was perfect straight away, no alignment required whatsoever. I did take it out in the past for cleaning, so I guess machining tolerances are spot on from the factory with the bottom carrier on mine.

Next I decided to set 0 to burrs almost touching. I marked factory 0 in case I decide to go back. I was really astonished to find out that my 0 is at minus 2.8 according to marks on the adjustment wheel. There is a whole 84 degrees of turning between factory 0 and when the burrs touch. 84 degrees! That's crazy!

I suspect those who have problems grinding fine enough for SOE might have same factory alignment as I did.

There are 60 teeth on the alignment wheel, so your degree of precision for setting new zero mark is very coarse - 6 degrees.

So my zero is 4-5 degrees away from burrs touching. Even at this setting whatever comes out of the grinder is just powder. I brewed turkish at that grind setting and it was way too fine, I stepped up to around 2.2 to get a result I liked. I am not claiming I know how to brew good turkish though, so take this with a grain of salt.

I can of course take the top burr off, go past burr touching point on the wheel, and have those 4-5 degrees back. Then burrs would touch at say, not zero, but like 0.3 mark, and you'd have the rest of the range for your ultra light SOE, but I see no point doing that since it's going to be too fine anyways.

My opinion is that burrs are capable of going so fine it's unusable, while factory alignment limits that. Still not a favorable outcome for Ditting and their QC, but it's at least fixable.

Worst thing about this is that all my recipes now require mental gymnastics, I have to calculate where the new setting is for each of my favorite coffees. My columbia was at 6.2, now it's supposed to be at 9.0. My Ethiopia was at 7.25, now it should be at 10.05.

But what's even worse is that I was expecting that I'd get faster drawdown at same settings (because I am now aligned so less fines?) but it's the opposite, my drawdown for a one cup v60 is plus 15 seconds. I have to dial-in again for all my coffees it seems, and it puzzles me why.
What method did you use for alignment?

Acavia
Posts: 698
Joined: 4 years ago

#467: Post by Acavia »

Marin69 wrote: for pour over I was using an Ode with SSP burrs that I put in myself after being very unimpressed with factory burrs, I found it to be sometimes excellent but pretty inconsistent
How do the Ode w/ SSP and the Ditting Sweet compare in pour-over? Did you find more clarity in the Ode? I am considering getting one to see if it offers more clarity than my 804 Sweet. If you would, please compare and contrast them for pour-over.

Marin69
Posts: 2
Joined: 2 years ago

#468: Post by Marin69 »

I found the Ode with SSPs could offer more clarity at times but it was inconsistent, it could also bring out some off flavors in some coffees that I have not found in the 807, in particular some tobacco aromatics that were unpleasant, I'm not sure why. I have read that people are aligning the Ode and using shims, etc but I never did. I would occasionally get a brilliant cup of coffee but it could follow the next day with something that was still good but not great. It also seemed like the Ode was not exactly equipped for the SSP burrs, they are much heavier than the stock burrs and after I installed them it now shakes a little bit when grinding but I've had it for over a year and it's been fine, it just seems like the motor and weight is not a perfect match. Hence I think people that are really serious about coffee have been critical of the Ode for being more form than function...

In the big picture it's not a super expensive grinder and I also see them on Craigslist for good prices and it is a small footprint on the counter; I was going to sell mine but my wife uses it and is a little intimidated so far by the Ditting.

Acavia
Posts: 698
Joined: 4 years ago

#469: Post by Acavia »

Anyone tried a sieve on a Sweet grind. I used a similar product to this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DC ... 487V&psc=1
today on a 7.5 grind for a V60 after a 7.5 without one. The sieved coffee was cleaner, maybe a little less sweet but no tartness or bitterness. Both brews were good, but I preferred the sieved one overall.

What I am wondering is if others get similar result as far as percentage breakdown of sieved and non-sieved. Shaking the sieve for about 30 seconds, it left ~3.3g outside the sieve and 22.8g inside. So it was about ~12.6% of total grind outside sieve.

Edit: I just noticed the microns of the sieve are 600. I assumed it was much lower, 200 or 300 is what I was assuming. 12.6% under 600 microns is not much since the grind average is probably around 800.

Helvin
Posts: 2
Joined: 1 year ago

#470: Post by Helvin »

My 807LS makes the same rubbing noise. May I know how you fixed it in detail?
I tried to reposition the knob and tighten the bolt, but the unpleasant sound was still there.
I feel quite uncomfortable every time when I turn the knob between 4 to 6. :cry:
brz wrote:Regarding to my post as of July 8th, 2022, 1:51 pm

I did not manage to fix my fan problem by replacing them - the problem is in the electrical circuit itself. My purchased fans crunch similarly (but quieter). This reproduces only at fan low speed (when grinder decides to turn it on)

The knob problem fixed by its repositioning and tightening the fixing bolt.

I finally used to shim both burrs from 10-15% to 60-70% of touching area. This resulted in 0.5 espresso setting instead of 0.2 and slighly better cup, but I'm still dissatisfied and it's tasteless.

Also axial displacement was found, which cannot be fixed with any of shims as I think. May be this is a source of problems, that the burrs do not work as designed video