Acavia wrote:Do you mean you just switched the burrs 180 degrees each? What is actuating the switch?

No, no, no- sorry I am wasn't clear- I meant I spoke n the burr by hand vs. turning on the motor. Better control over when the Burt's began to touch.

How do you turn the bottom burr by hand with the top burr in place?

Use a flat head screwdriver to turn the burr using the large center screw

primacoffee wrote:My name's Ryan and I'm the Product Manager here at Prima. I'd like to jump in and help provide some clarity to 807 LS owners and those of you considering the grinder.

Ryan, since you're a vendor and your commentary could be viewed as a commercial post, I've split your helpful experience to a new thread in Marketplace. It's a "commercial DMZ" for sponsors: Ditting 807 Lab Sweet observations. Members are welcome to post questions directly to Ryan there. Thanks.

coffee_Me wrote:1. Did zero calibration, brought 0.5 over 12 to the fine side on the scale.
2. Quick marker test on both burrs, not perfect. But I didn't have the right size screwdriver on hand to unscrew burrs, so the only way I could thought out was to add aluminum foil to the 3 positions below to improve the stationary burr a little bit.

This change dramatically affected the taste of pour over, surprisingly brought out noticeably bright acidity, slightly less sweetness, increased the complexity of the cup in a very nice way, which is very close to the detailed aroma/flavour/aftertaste description from roaster.

Espresso-wise, the pulling time was still within 20s for SOE under low pressure(3~6 bar roughly) , although it still tasted nice. (actually, it was tasty even when the espresso gashed out previously). The last pic shows the finest I could get, not sure whether it can tell anything.

What did you use to keep the foil in place on the burr carrier?

mborkow wrote:The Lab Sweet version sells itself as good for a single dosing environment, right? Did the 804 series have these issues? I understand needing to re-zero a grinder of any price but adding tin foil shims to a grinder of this price...that'd be like needing to shim my Rolex to get it to keep good time!

The only grinder manufacturers that I have heard of that do not require alignment on the user end for near-perfect alignment, are Kafatek and Lagom. I am not claiming perfect knowledge or anything here, but any grinder from any other manufacturer, I would assume out of box it is not perfectly aligned. I've had to align every grinder i've bought, aside from hand grinders.

Small upside, for my 804, it was quite easy to access the burr chamber to do all of this. I think I placed a few pieces of foil, and got extremely fine grinds. I haven't tested it, but I think I would choke my spring lever machine for a very very long time if I tried to pull a shot with finest grind on my lab sweet.

Bue wrote:So i contacted a vendor in Germany and asked about people reporting bad alignment and not being able to grind fine enough for light roast. I got this answer back

I disagree and he has not given any reason for me to think otherwise

I would add Titus from Germany, neither the nautilus nor the Titvs I have ever heard of alignment issues. Just as a small add. I know the company is internationally less known.

Hi everyone,

I don't mean to hijack this thread with my own specific issue (apologies in advance if it's viewed that way), but I think the following does have relevance to the whole "Ditting Lab Sweet user experience" (particularly the burr set) so I would be grateful for your views and perspectives on the following ...

Last December (so it's still under warranty) I bought a Ditting 807 Lab Sweet which I've been very happy with. I did a routine clean the other day for the first time (it's only been very lightly used nearly exclusively for coarse grinding - about 15kg of beans have been through it) and I noticed that there was some damage to the outer rim of the upper burr whilst the lower burr is absolutely fine. For additional context - I didn't align the burrs when the grinder arrived because I bought the Ditting just for brewing and I was pleased with its initial output - I bought it to contrast with my more highly machined Titus Nautilus and Ceado Hero so I wasn't seeking hyper-alignment.

I emailed the UK supplier and requested a new upper burr. They replied and said that they'd spoken with Ditting about the photos (attached) and Ditting have said that "the most likely" cause was a foreign object in the beans I've used and so the warranty doesn't apply & that I would need to pay for a new set of burrs (both upper and lower - I've priced them at approx £370).

I use a great roastery for my beans (have done for approx 20 years) and whilst, of course, it's not impossible there could have been a stone in the beans at some point over time, I doubt it and think it's equally likely it was a prior material defect in the burr.

the questions I have for people on this thread with experience of Dittings would include:

• if it was a foreign object caught in the burr would the damage pattern look the way it does and wouldn't the lower burr have been affected too?
  do you think the damage is minor enough that I should just forget about it?
  or, on the other hand, should £3k for a grinder ensure tip-top burrs & is it unreasonable to expect Ditting/the UK supplier to source a replacement upper burr?

many thanks in advance for any input, I'm obviously not objective in this situation and it would be helpful to get a more neutral perspective.

very best wishes,

Paul.

I'd have thought damage from a stone would show up in the large breakers that first come into contact with what is being ground rather than at the outer edge of the burr beyond the flutes.

Thanks for that input Matthew, I am struggling to see how the pattern fits the "foreign object" theory.

Best,

Paul.