Hi All,

This is my first post on the forum, and I am asking for some help. I just received my Weber Workshops EG-1. It is a beautiful machine, and I know I will derive much pleasure from its use. I have, however, run into an issue which I think you experienced EG-1 users can help me with. My machine was purchased with both the Core and Ultra burrs. As you all know, it comes with the Core burrs installed. Since I have been drinking a lot of pour-over lately, I decided to swap the Core out for the Ultra after grinding a bit with the Core in place.

So, I watched Doug's video on swapping out the burrs and thought I followed his directions precisely. Evidently, I did not . What happened is that when I completed the swap, I found that after fully tightening the Bottom Bearing Mount, I can no longer turn the Locking Ring! I have redone the swap several times and watched the video several times, all with the same result. I know this is my fault and am positive I am doing something wrong. I just can't figure out what it is. If I leave the screws for the Bottom Bearing Mount loose, the Ring will turn. When I tighten them, it's frozen.

Does anybody have an idea about how to fix this? Any help would be much appreciated!

Thanks to all in advance,
John

Burrs have different zero points. Try adjusting the ring coarser before tightening the bottom mount. I'm guessing you are seizing the threads.

This^^^

Thanks for the suggestion, Quester. You were correct! The burrs were seizing up. I made adjustments and all is now good.

What had me confused is that in Doug Weber's video where he shows the burr swap in about 2.5 minutes, he suggests that, before tightening the Bottom Bearing Mount, the bottom burr should be tight to the point where it is not moving freely. If I take it to that point and finish tightening, then they will bind. I found that by loosening them so they do still move freely, I am good to go. In order to find that point without over loosening, I had to loosen and tighten a few times to make sure the Locking Ring would still move.

If I have to go through this trial and error process every time I swap burrs, I think this means that the burr swap will take a bit longer than the video suggests. Of course, with a bit of practice, this may improve considerably.

JohnG wrote:Thanks for the suggestion, Quester. You were correct! The burrs were seizing up. I made adjustments and all is now good.

Awesome-enjoy the grinder!

If/when you swap back to the core from the ultras, be aware that it may take some force. The loaner burrs and grinder I used were INCREDIBLY snug to the point where I had to walk away from the set for a day or so in order to clear my head before continuing on with the burr removal (the burrs and grinder were from two separate parties)

I'm glad I'm not the only one that went through this! The video was deceptively simple, turns out is is actually pretty simple but it would've helped so much to mention you have to turn it coarser as you tighten the screws. There's also a couple of parts that can come loose and get lost if your not careful such as the pins that hold the burrs from spinning, the spring in the shaft, and the metal "key" portion that sticks out of the shaft that keys into the bottom burr carrier.

Did any of you use paper shims when changing the burrs? The back of the burrs say "paper shim here", I'm pretty sure it's still a remnant from v1 egs

Jeff, you hit the nail on the head. "Turn it coarser as you tighten the screws". And, yes, the "key" fell out without my realizing it at the outset and so did one of the burr pins. At first I did not know where that little piece of metal went! Anyway, once you know how to do it, it's pretty simple...

Michael,

I hope I don't run into that and think it is unlikely because in trying to get this thing figured out I have already gone back and forth between the burr sets a few times.

Incidentally, I enjoy your video reviews very much!

Jeff001 wrote:Did any of you use paper shims when changing the burrs? The back of the burrs say "paper shim here", I'm pretty sure it's still a remnant from v1 egs

I did, but I was using the conversion pins (I had one of the early ones) and there might have been a bit more slop. I wanted to have everything snug and centered. But, Douglas said it was not necessary.