Compak K10 WBC has landed! - Page 2

Grinders are one of the keys to exceptional espresso. Discuss them here.
walt_in_hawaii

#11: Post by walt_in_hawaii » Jun 21, 2018, 1:50 pm

Hi John, I do not know the build date and cannot find a sticker on it.
No, will not be using it with any doser.... it came with a stainless funnel attached where the doser would normally go, just like you'd see on a mazzer-E model. While that does work, a film of fine grounds tend to stick to the insides of the funnel, so I want to lose that.

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JohnB.
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#12: Post by JohnB. » Jun 21, 2018, 3:00 pm

The K10WBC/PB doesn't blow the grounds out like a Mazzer Major. You will need to sweep the chute area with a brush.
LMWDP 267

walt_in_hawaii

#13: Post by walt_in_hawaii » Jun 22, 2018, 12:45 am

Ok, after doing everything I shouldn't and running it with my hands near the port (gasp!) and shining a flashlight into the port, I am happy to report that I still have all my fingers. I am convinced there is a considerable amount of retention as the sweepers fly kinda high above the base... easy to fix, but the sizing of the exit chute is problematic and doesn't lead to grounds being ejected cleanly. They sort of land in the fat opening and get pushed out, mostly on the left bottom side (as you are looking at the machine). I've seen a couple posts with a huge elephant nozzle you can put onto this machine, I guess... the link I tried to follow to look at the price didn't work anymore. But, the pic of that nozzle leaves me unconvinced... it looks to just be an addendum to the stock exit port. The problem is the port should have an angled floor... failing that, it needs to have the roof deleted or minimized for access, so you can sweep with a brush. So, unless you attached the output from your shop vac to the intake hopper after each grind to blow it out, you'll get a bunch of grounds stuck where you can't really see them anymore due to the schnozzle in the way.

walt_in_hawaii

#14: Post by walt_in_hawaii » Jun 22, 2018, 2:00 am

hmmmm.
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carbide is an interesting metal. Very hard. makes excellent cutting tools :)
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Started slow but quickly got bored with how much damage I was doing to my new grinder and stepped it up. Don't you hate cutting up your perfectly good car/boat/house/coffee machine/grinder (you insert whatever here)??!
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cut the outer casing up to that hole in the face... was going to do a half moon shaped wider opening, but decided to leave well enough alone. That'll do.
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will this be enough removed from the roof to reach in and sweep? I hope so....
gotta clean up all the metal shavings. hope not too many got inside the motor housing...
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walt_in_hawaii

#15: Post by walt_in_hawaii » Jun 22, 2018, 2:35 am

widened the top opening (roof) just a tad more... looks like I stopped a little short, especially on the left side. Could have pushed that out another 1/16" or thereabouts... But looks like its sweepable now. Tomorrow have to start on the chute.
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JohnB.
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#16: Post by JohnB. » Jun 22, 2018, 8:49 am

With the original plastic chute in place none of that hacking of the body is necessary. You just cut back the top of the plastic chute & you have brush access for sweeping. With a quick sweep & a blast from my Rocket bellows retention runs about 1-2 tenths of a gram max with each dose. If it's still available the OE stainless Mini hopper is a nice addition for single dosing.

Compak K10 Chute Mods
LMWDP 267

walt_in_hawaii

#17: Post by walt_in_hawaii » Jun 22, 2018, 2:33 pm

Thanks John... I wish it were that simple. I think they have made slight changes over the years and I have a slightly different port. I can see from the pics in your post that the upper portion of the grinder are different, but the actual aluminum port appears to be about the same size. It is sweepable in stock form by reaching in with a small brush, but access is fairly cramped... thus the cutting away of the roof on mine. I did try doing that prior to starting all this, of course... but now my brush looks like it had a 'bad hair brush day' with the strands sticking out every which way and backwards. I think with the rubber guard on mine (instead of the plastic one on yours) it grabs the strands of the brush much more so ends up ruining your brush bigtime. So hopefully sweeping will be much easier now. But, the original problem remains.... the grounds come out very well if the machine is clean/first grind of the day (after a vacuuming), then at some point the grounds slow down, back up in the port and start oozing out and will require sweeping after you turn it off. To push that point off indefinitey and improve the grounds flow, I've been playing with the idea of cutting away the floor a little, and putting in a floor with a good downward tilt, say around 30 degrees? But putting in a floor into that cramped space is a bit difficult. I will build side plates first and build in a floor with the slant that starts where the current floor stops and do a test to see. If that doesn't work well enough, then no choice but to cut the floor back and start the inclined section sooner. But, that will also require cutting the body of the grinder (underneath the port area). Big job that I'd rather avoid.

aloha,
walt

walt_in_hawaii

#18: Post by walt_in_hawaii » Jun 23, 2018, 7:05 pm

Man it is hot today! The roof bothered me all night, so I taped it up again and pushed the cuts out to the corners... I took the opportunity to widen the cut above so it doesn't look so much like a keyhole slot... now its sorta more like a semi circle.
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Next, I laid out some lines on some aluminum plate I had lying around and started cutting out the side panels:
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The pieces are mirror images, of course, for right and left. The edges are straightened on the mill:
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And they kinda go in like this:
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The inside edge has to be cut down so that each side plate will 'slip over' the exit chute's side walls. I couldn't measure the thickness of the walls because they are inside the body and the calipers cannot reach in that far. Just eyeballing it, I cut the first relief cut at .075" ...
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It turns out the correct depth is about .110". This leaves a very nice, slightly shallow lip that, when you put the two pieces next to each other, leaves a very close fitment but its slightly low for ease of sweeping from one level to the next... it present a slight 'drop' so sweeping is easier with less resistance.
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Taking a break for lunch. The relief cuts in the side panels had to be cut farther forward... in the picture they are about .300" long; had to extend that to about .850" inwards (so the chute will slide deeper into the machine)Next up: have to cut out a rectangle for the floor of this chute. I made the side panels with a 45 degree down angle. But when offering it up, I can already see it will hit the bottom of the body of the grinder slightly. Have to cut this body away slightly to allow fitment of the new chute. Here I am juggling both side panels with one hand and taking the pic with a full sized DLSR in the other:
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walt_in_hawaii

#19: Post by walt_in_hawaii » Jun 24, 2018, 12:42 am

Made the floorplate.... then had to make another. When trying to set it up, I realized the assembly couldn't be held with a C clamp or anything because there were only 3 sides... so I had to make another 'floorplate' just to have it while bracing the assembly for final assembly of the chute.

Here the outer casing had to be cut down slightly to make room for the chute:
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Left and right plates:
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The chute should really be welded together, but I'm a little nervous about that because I may have to take it apart to make adjustments, so I just epoxied the bottom. It won't be strong enough, probably, as I couldn't assemble it with epoxy inside the joints (assembled wet) as the assembly process is just too fiddly trying to get everything lined up. I'm thinking turn it over and put loctite into the joint from the other side (top) and let capillary action draw it into the joint? or just run a weld bead on the inside? dunno... note the 'box' shape is temporary, the leg on top is just sitting there to square it up for bracing purposes, it won't be there in final assembly.
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walt_in_hawaii

#20: Post by walt_in_hawaii » Jun 25, 2018, 2:37 pm

ok, something's up. I put a little line of Loctite on the other side of that joint with the epoxy on the other side; I could see the Loctite drawn up into the joint, but it won't dry?! Its been 2 days now and its still wet... clearly something's up, I think its reacting with the epoxy to prevent it from drying... blah, another holdup :(