Compak K10 WBC doser

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barqy

#1: Post by barqy »

hey everyone

i recently purchased a compak k10 wbc version (circa 2008)

wanting to take apart the doser and vanes, does the silver adjustment knob just turn out (counter clockwise)? Doesn't seem to want to budge when I tried turning it.

Also does anyone know what this nylon screw is used for?

lastly, my grind adjustment collar didn't come with a set screw like the new ones, but rather it has a metal piece underneath it which acts as collar stop. Is the set screw necessary (I assume it's used in high vol. cafes to lock in a grind?)

thanks!





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JohnB.
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#2: Post by JohnB. »

The knob does unscrew normally. Just push down while turning to get it started. If you remove that roll pin you won't have to remove the grind collar from the upper burr holder next time you want to access the burrs. Should have originally come with the grind set screw assy. The plastic screw just acts as a pf stop if you use a spouted pf. Check out the old K10 single dosing mod threads if you aren't going to use a hopper.
LMWDP 267

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Jeff
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#3: Post by Jeff »

That bulbous "nut" in the middle of the doser has detents beneath it that help keep it from rotating. The spring under the sweep arms usually can be depressed to let you unscrew the nut. If the previous owner cranked it down all the way (like i do), there may not be a lot of play left in the spring to depress. Once you get past that first "bump", it should be a lot easier to press down on the arms and unscrew it the rest of the way.

If you disassemble the ratchet/spring under the doser, take lots of photos. I remember it being a good puzzle how to put it back together without photos and just the exploded view of parts.

Great grinder, especially with the mods to the throat so it is easy to brush it out. I single-dosed mine for a decade.

barqy (original poster)

#4: Post by barqy (original poster) »

Hi

thanks was able to get it off, glad I did, it was very nasty underneath! I noticed the casting on the vanes and dose exit chute quite rough, would it wise to sand these parts down?

as well, how important it is to get the grind set screw assembly for the collar? I'll have to email compak to check availability as the usual suspects don't seem to carry just that piece (I wonder if I can just find a metric screw and screw it through or will it damage something?)



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Jeff
Team HB

#5: Post by Jeff »

That looks familiar. It looks like the inner/lower arms might be jammed or just gunked up. They are supposed to slide so that the arms can height adjust for dose size in a cafe setting.

I never thought of sanding anything down, but did vacuum daily and clean every year or two. I never found the grind to shift in mine. The collar was reasonably stiff. Somewhere I've got some thin cutting-board sheets that I was going to use for sweepers, but never did. Trimming the black "snout" to open up the top made it very easy to brush out. There's a thread somewhere on it. A fine hacksaw blade and an emery board (coarse nail file) worked well for me.

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JohnB.
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#6: Post by JohnB. »

A couple of useful threads: First Impressions on upgrading from Mazzer Super Jolly to Compak K10
Compak K10 Grind Retention Mods (vane and tape sweeper mods)

Be sure to lube the burr carrier threads well with a foodsafe petroleum based grease like the Haynes Lubri-Film Plus when you reassemble the grinder.
I usually lube the threads, install the carrier fully, remove it & wipe off any excess grease at the bottom of the threaded area on the body, then reinstall.
LMWDP 267
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barqy (original poster)

#7: Post by barqy (original poster) »

Hello
thanks for the links, I have had a read before but will take a second look.

I have petro gel which should do the trick (http://www.petrolgel.com/uses/)

Do you recommend grinding smooth the casting defects on the doser? Should be safe to grind smooth with a dremel if I go slow (i dont think anything would crack would it?)

lastly, do you use your grind set screw assembly for the collar?
Jeff wrote:That looks familiar. It looks like the inner/lower arms might be jammed or just gunked up. They are supposed to slide so that the arms can height adjust for dose size in a cafe setting.

I never thought of sanding anything down, but did vacuum daily and clean every year or two. I never found the grind to shift in mine. The collar was reasonably stiff. Somewhere I've got some thin cutting-board sheets that I was going to use for sweepers, but never did. Trimming the black "snout" to open up the top made it very easy to brush out. There's a thread somewhere on it. A fine hacksaw blade and an emery board (coarse nail file) worked well for me.
thanks jeff! ill be sure to do the mod chute as it looks easy to do and worth while. so i take it you never set the grind set screw on the collar eh?

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JohnB.
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#8: Post by JohnB. »

barqy wrote:Do you recommend grinding smooth the casting defects on the doser? Should be safe to grind smooth with a dremel if I go slow (i dont think anything would crack would it?)

lastly, do you use your grind set screw assembly for the collar?
I'd clean up the exit chute. That area on mine is much smoother. May have come that way or I might have cleaned it up 12 years ago. Don't recall. Don't waste time on the vanes as you'll be covering the sweeping side with either velcro or tape or ?? to improve sweeping. Move the plastic washer, remove the roll pin stop, mod the plastic grounds chute & sweeper vanes and you should be good. I also added a wood handle to the grounds adjustment collar & installed one of Orphan Espresso's s/d hoppers. Still use mine every morning when I make our breakfast Americanos. I prefer the Anfim SC for straight shots these days.

I do use the grind set screw as the upper burr holder will move some when the grinder starts if it isn't tightened.

K10 grind adjustment handle

LMWDP 267

barqy (original poster)

#9: Post by barqy (original poster) »

JohnB. wrote:I'd clean up the exit chute. That area on mine is much smoother. May have come that way or I might have cleaned it up 12 years ago. Don't recall. Don't waste time on the vanes as you'll be covering the sweeping side with either velcro or tape or ?? to improve sweeping. Move the plastic washer, remove the roll pin stop, mod the plastic grounds chute & sweeper vanes and you should be good. I also added a wood handle to the grounds adjustment collar & installed one of Orphan Espresso's s/d hoppers. Still use mine every morning when I make our breakfast Americanos. I prefer the Anfim SC for straight shots these days.

I do use the grind set screw as the upper burr holder will move some when the grinder starts if it isn't tightened.

K10 grind adjustment handle

image
Is the plastic washer youre referring to the one sandwiched against the dosing vanes?

also, since the upper burr carrier contains a lower (fixed) and upper part, do I need to lube the mating surface so it turns easier (I did see some fine aluminum/grey dust on this surface)?
Or do I just lube the threads? concerned about all the cross threading stories as currently (without lube) it's hard to feel the burrs 'set' into the groves before tightening.

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JohnB.
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#10: Post by JohnB. »

barqy wrote:Is the plastic washer youre referring to the one sandwiched against the dosing vanes?

also, since the upper burr carrier contains a lower (fixed) and upper part, do I need to lube the mating surface so it turns easier (I did see some fine aluminum/grey dust on this surface)?
Or do I just lube the threads? concerned about all the cross threading stories as currently (without lube) it's hard to feel the burrs 'set' into the groves before tightening.
It's the plastic washer that sits on top of the metal chute cover under the upper sweeper assy. #20 in the aluminum doser breakdown here: https://www.cafeparts.com/Espresso-Coff ... temid=9333 Put it under the metal cover so the upper sweepers sit closer to the metal cover.

You could lube that surface lightly. Be sure that all 3 of the allen bolts that hold the upper burr in place are tight. It will be easier to reinstall the upper burr carrier with the grind collar attached. I usually turn it backwards until it drops in the slot & then slowly start screwing it in.
LMWDP 267