Do you have a tightening sequence for the bolts?

No, these aren't supposed to be comprehensive instructions, just some tips, since there's a lot of stuff that's useful to get together and have on hand before you begin. I'm a bit of a klutz and not great with tools, so I'm not a good person to ask on this sort of stuff. I assume one should tighten opposite burrs on the sets of four, and that there's not really that much meaningful choice on the sets of three.

Especially with the soft-ish spacers. I think it's difficult to achieve consistent bolt tension, but I'm no expert in this. For cylinder heads, there's usually a relaxation step to seat the gasket. Something like 150nm in a spiral, quarter turn loose, and then final tightening to 300 (numbers made up).

I have to agree here, the softish shims are an Achilles heel, due to the way they were cut (knife) there is already enough difference at the edges to guarantee micrometrical differences as you tighten the bolts. Also, the softish material might also have differences in width and density, that acrylic sheet is not made with precision needs and is industrially produced with minimum (if any) care for that end. You might want to search for a better shim material if your aim is to keep the Titus burrs in the Max.

Well done. I couldn't have done it better myself.

luca wrote:

The SSP/Titus old geometry Mahlkonig burrs made incredible pourover. I got like a 26% EY v60 that didn't taste overextracted and was oozing with aroma and flavour, from Morgon's filter brewed Kenyan coffee. These burrs can't really go fine enough for espresso.

Maybe I'm reading this wrong, but are you saying SSP burr sets weren't good enough for 'spro? I have seen others mention similar, yet why wouid so many use SSP for espresso use than? Just curious. I know on a friend's grinder SSP was killer for both espresso and pour over.

Did you perform a marker test to check alignment of the burrs?

Responses on a few issues:

guydebord wrote:I have to agree here, the softish shims are an Achilles heel, due to the way they were cut (knife) there is already enough difference at the edges to guarantee micrometrical differences as you tighten the bolts. Also, the softish material might also have differences in width and density, that acrylic sheet is not made with precision needs and is industrially produced with minimum (if any) care for that end. You might want to search for a better shim material if your aim is to keep the Titus burrs in the Max.

Yes, this is a good point. They're soft and will deform over time. They were what I had at the time. I purposely chose a relatively soft material so that there was no chance of me hurting the buttery soft aluminium burr carriers. I have the revised MK burrs only for a short period of time, so the objective was to get to use them quickly, not to get it done perfectly.

Peppersass wrote:Did you perform a marker test to check alignment of the burrs?

For some of the three installations performed, but the marker test strikes me as pretty terrible. The aim was to do something quick and dirty. Well, quick and clean. But quick and expedient. Maybe if you spend twice as long and have a good rig to check the alignment, the EY increases 2% and you travel through time?

cmin wrote:Maybe I'm reading this wrong, but are you saying SSP burr sets weren't good enough for 'spro? I have seen others mention similar, yet why wouid so many use SSP for espresso use than? Just curious. I know on a friend's grinder SSP was killer for both espresso and pour over.

Yes, you are reading this wrong. I explained in the intro that there are at least 7 different 98mm burr sets on the market, made with different objectives and purposes. I was clear with that statement that what I was referring to was not one of the four burr sets manufactured by SSP from scratch, but a Mahlkonig burr set sent back to SSP to be cut back to the pre-circa 2015 geometry. Around 2014-2015, MK changed their standard burr geometry slightly to grind finer. This burr set was revised on purpose to grind coarser.

Bluecold wrote:Especially with the soft-ish spacers. I think it's difficult to achieve consistent bolt tension, but I'm no expert in this. For cylinder heads, there's usually a relaxation step to seat the gasket. Something like 150nm in a spiral, quarter turn loose, and then final tightening to 300 (numbers made up).

What sort of fancy screwdriver do you need in order to be able to achieve this, though?

Final note; none of this is supposed to be comprehensive, either about installation, or results. In fact, I'm starting to regret having posted any information about results at all.

luca wrote: What sort of fancy screwdriver do you need in order to be able to achieve this, though?

Final note; none of this is supposed to be comprehensive, either about installation, or results. In fact, I'm starting to regret having posted any information about results at all.

I'm sorry if I implied you were doing it wrong, I don't think you are, but I was just wondering if the monolith manual prescribes a tightening procedure.
The cylinder head was just an example of a similar engineering problem, with a soft interface between two pieces of metal that need to be mounted exactly parallel.

Curious to what taste impact you are getting on pour over. I have a MAX I only use on filter, so wondering how that worked for you.