Baratza Vario Super Alignment owner experience - Page 34

Grinders are one of the keys to exceptional espresso. Discuss them here.
pcrussell50 (original poster)
Posts: 4010
Joined: 15 years ago

#331: Post by pcrussell50 (original poster) »

sheedapistawl wrote:someone should measure or find out the stated torque for these burrs on a torque wrench in Nm to not get taco burr syndrome (burrs bending due to over tightening)
My thought/wish here is that the print file for the spacers should be everywhere, and then nobody would have to worry about taco burr.

I think the file is out there for the asking.

-Peter
LMWDP #553

rodrigo.jacques
Posts: 3
Joined: 4 years ago

#332: Post by rodrigo.jacques »

pcrussell50 wrote:Meu pensamento / desejo aqui é que o arquivo de impressão dos espaçadores esteja em todo lugar, e então ninguém teria que se preocupar com rebarbas de taco.
worse that I'm using the spacers, I only sanded them too much, but every time I tap the screws it changes a lot

vanilla_squash
Posts: 28
Joined: 5 years ago

#333: Post by vanilla_squash »

I just purchased a used vario with all the good forte bits (metal grind chamber, steel burrs) and performed the alignment procedure. I am blown. away. by the grinds coming out of this thing. I've had to weigh the grind pile because it was probably twice the size of the pile produced by my apex, didn't look correct at all. Resulting pour overs are incredible. I need a refractometer to confirm, but it feels like a huge jump in extraction compared to the apex, with no added bitterness.

The process itself was a breeze. Less than an hour to complete, full wipe on both burrs on the first try. 10/10 highly recommended.

roxtc
Posts: 43
Joined: 9 years ago

#334: Post by roxtc »

Guys I'm being mighty humbled right now, as a computer tech, I've taken apart all kinds of computers and electronics successfully for the most part but I've spent two days trying to upgrade my Vario to Forte parts and I'm stuck. I can't figure out how to get the lever arms to engage, I'm moving mine but it's not moving the burrs. I also can't figure out how to take off the arms. I'm going to send this out on Monday to Baratza unless you guys can set me straight.

Depauperate
Posts: 40
Joined: 11 years ago

#335: Post by Depauperate »

roxtc wrote: I can't figure out how to get the lever arms to engage, I'm moving mine but it's not moving the burrs. I also can't figure out how to take off the arms. I'm going to send this out on Monday to Baratza unless you guys can set me straight.
It's hard to say without seeing, and I'm not sure about removing the arms anyway, but most people just straight swap the new grind chamber onto the old motor plate so you dont have to mess with the arms. If when you push up (down, when you have the assembly upside down to work on it) on the macro adjustment arm you can't see it pushing the silver cross bar against the brass adjustment spline, you may have bigger problems..

If Jake G is still around this thread, he's probably the best bet for someone who's actually removed the adjustment arms.. if not, you could always contact Baratza and ask them. I dont have mine open to look at it now, but I suspect they are just snapped into place somehow.

beerwiffle
Posts: 31
Joined: 12 years ago

#336: Post by beerwiffle »

roxtc wrote:Guys I'm being mighty humbled right now, as a computer tech, I've taken apart all kinds of computers and electronics successfully for the most part but I've spent two days trying to upgrade my Vario to Forte parts and I'm stuck. I can't figure out how to get the lever arms to engage, I'm moving mine but it's not moving the burrs. I also can't figure out how to take off the arms. I'm going to send this out on Monday to Baratza unless you guys can set me straight.

I know your pain -- I just shipped in a grinder I tried to upgrade for my friend. Definitely something I missed, but I tried so many different things as well. I wouldn't even think again about trading that day out for the $85 fee.

sheedapistawl
Posts: 95
Joined: 4 years ago

#337: Post by sheedapistawl »

(1) mount the new chamber on the old motor plate with the new provided screws

(2) if levers don't make burrs touch throughout their range you need to fiddle with the coarse and fine adjustment screw such that ideally your coarse lever doesn't make burrs touch but when it's all the way fine, the fine lever makes them touch somewhere in the middle, call it calibration thé Vario to "1K" or something - then you can do the alignment, retest wipe while grinder is disassembled, put it back together and recalibrate

john_ertw
Posts: 78
Joined: 11 years ago

#338: Post by john_ertw »

Jake_G wrote:I will have some updated guidance on performing the alignment based on some recent learnings that I will share soon. Basically, you don't have to (and nor should you) remove the grind assembly from the top casing to get excellent results, and get them more quickly.

The TLDR version is to just remove the top casing and necessary wires to separate the grinding portion of the grinder from the base and then set that whole assembly upside down and work from there. You can access the four screws that secure the grind chamber to the motor plate without removing anything from the top casing. This allows you to move the levers and have the spring detents hold them in place while you loosen and tighten the grind chamber screws. The detents act like an extra set of hands and make the alignment easier to perform and remove potential variables from the process. I brought the burrs into contact to the point where I could grasp the drive pulley and spin with moderate effort due to friction between the burrs with the levers and then used the calibration screw to maintain that amount of contact after loosening the grind chamber screws and while gently securing them during the alignment.

I spent a fair amount of time recently with the alignment process and was greatly annoyed that it would seem great at first and then I'd have a poor ink pattern after assembly. I still can't explain why, but leaving everything assembled and using the method above took care of the problem and I think it is big enough improvement in the process that I felt compelled to share and recommend the approach going forward.
Jake, did you ever post additional instructions on this revised process where you keep the top casing on? I searched all your posts since posted this in February but couldn't find further details. I am wondering how you would determine how much pressure to apply when going about it this way as I believe you lose some of the feel in the levers.

I went through the process once myself, but think I need to do it again for further improvement. I believe my issue was that I didn't adjust the calibration to hold the adjustment rocker/grind adjustment spline against the lower burr carrier before starting and things were just too loose.

I also believe my adjustment rocker on my Vario is fairly well worn from about 10 years of daily use (lots of fine metal debris on the end of the lower burr carrier). I haven't heard of anyone ever replacing this due to wear, but wondering if it should be done. I'm thinking this may contribute to lower burrs that wobble when running without an upper burr installed (something I experience and have seen others post about).

emagguy
Posts: 18
Joined: 7 years ago

#339: Post by emagguy »

Hi all

I happen to come across an opportunity to get a used mahlkonig vario, whilst I know that Mahlkonig and baratza vario are technically the same I aint sure if alignment can be done on this european version of grinder - wanna seek your advices before I hit the button! Thanks!

Depauperate
Posts: 40
Joined: 11 years ago

#340: Post by Depauperate »

emagguy wrote:Hi all
...Mahlkonig and baratza vario are technically the same...
I expect short the answer is "yes" though the level of your success would probably depend on getting the metal grind chamber. The only parts diagrams I've seen of the EU version has a number of parts that Barazta have since updated. The plastic grind chamber can be aligned, in exactly the same way, but-particularly depending on how old it is-might not hold that alignment indefinitely. If you can source the parts, you could swap them in, but you might have to contact a local distributer to see if they are available in your region, I couldn't say.