Grinders are one of the keys to exceptional espresso. Discuss them here.
They are an odd fastener that doesn't grab a standard Phillips or slotted screwdriver with much confidence.
Are they JIS screws? If so, there are screw drivers available for them at Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS- ... B00A7WAHTU
Gave up on my current metal grinds chamber as the screws are in way too tight and partially stripped. I swapped to the original grinds chamber and aligned it (way easier) and now have it installed. I plan on calling Baratza to see what ways forward I have. How large of a benefit is there in switching to the metal grinds chamber? Did it push a cup (espresso or drip) from 8.5 to 9 or even smaller/larger than that.
- Team HB
If you were able to align the plastic grind chamber, I don't think it matters.
The reason I started this is because I was helping a friend figure out how to use a Forte BG to make espresso. As it came fro. The factory, no manner of tightening the grind would grind fine enough for spro with the steel burrs. The ceramic burrs performed "fine" and made tasty spro.
After alignment, the original Alicorn not only performs well for spro but made impeccably clean cups of brew and all but eliminated muddy beds from pour over and allowed for finer grinds while maintaining good draw down times. I don't know that one would say the plastic chamber cannot attain this, but the metal chamber is certainly more stout. If you are happy with the amount of fines you are getting and have good draw down times with clean beds and/or are able to pull shots at any brew ratio and shot duration or extraction level that you are after, I say go with it. Many have found that their plastic grind chambers are just not rigid enough to give them good results, but yours may be fine.
If you have alignment, that's key. Still I would want the bling of the metal bits, (after alignment, that is one of the reasons I wanted this). Definitely follow up with Baratza.
Not sure, based on the last two pages of the Forte parts list
, it says it is a Phillips Screw M3x12. Doing a google search of that screw doesn't really show what it actually looks like. The head looks more like this one:
M3x12 is just the diameter of the screw and the length...doesn't say anything about the head...I also stripped the screw heads on mine by tightening too hard, it doesn't need to be Herculean strength.
I think the Japanese JIS screwdrivers work better with the screws in the Forté so maybe they are JIS heads...but also think they are low quality, very soft
- Supporter ♡
I used a sixty-plus-year-old #2 Phillips screwdriver when I did mine ... although I just took the back off, and these screwheads look like a Pozi-drive-type profile to me (so a screwdriver with a worn-down tip should work better). I just tried a JIS #2 screwdriver, and it fit fine and accepted torque, even at a slight angle.
I also see what looks to be JIS screws holding down the circuit board, and the ground screws look like JIS as well.
What I'm interested in is my worst espresso being fantastic - James Hoffmann
Once out, is there any reason one couldn't replace with an M3 screw or bolt with a more conventional head?
- Team HB
But it does need to be a pan head, as the hole in the motor plate is quite over-sized.
thanks Jake for posting the info and everyone for posting questions. I am in the process of attempting to align my vario with
the plastic burr carrier ( i think i will probably order the metal soon) and i am having a bit of confusion about the brass adjustment spline, the screw that holds it in place, and the headless set screw which i have circled in blue usings lelands picture. I dont really understand at which point these should be tightened down; if i dont tighten down the headless set screw the housing for the brass shim moves freely in the casing, if i do tighten it down, it seems to push the burrs into eachother? should i loosen each and then just snug them up once i have aligned the carriers? any help would greatly be appreciated.