My 270w died at about 3 months

My 1st 270W died at about 3 months.

# 2 died sooner, but a different problem. Panel doesn't even light up.

#3 arrives tomw.

i would also look at asking whether you run the Euro 230v or USA 150v models. For instance ive got a 230v and so far its running great right out of the box

I'm in Turkey. My sette 270 died after 5 weeks of use just after an oily bean grind. Lights up, timer counts down but no grind. I sent it to the supplier and they've changed the motor. Everything is fine again. But i was using 2 shims now i use 1 shim; i wonder if the burrs are attached to the motor so they are also subject to change when the motor is replaced?

djdigy wrote: i wonder if the burrs are attached to the motor so they are also subject to change when the motor is replaced?

Yes, they are. The dc motor, gearbox, and ring burr are replaced as a single unit. You now have a new ring burr and your original cone burr which in part explains the change in grind shim and setting.

My 270W motor was replaced by Baratza due to a broken commutator at about 5 or so months. As I live in Seattle I just drove the grinder over to the Baratza office and they fixed it on the spot as I watched. They mentioned there was a manufacturing flaw with the dc motor commutator/armature windings region which can cause dead spots in the motor. If the motor stops rotating at a dead spot, it will not grind. If you turn the ring burr a little out of the 'dead zone' you can make the motor work again... until you stop on the dead spot again. Think of it like Russian roulette. I believe this is what others have found, which can be confusing to diagnose: One day grinder counts down/lights up but the motor doesn't turn; user tries various troubleshooting including removing the lower burr, thereby rotating the motor out of the dead spot; grinder works again until it stops in a dead zone.

To followup to my post, you can see the parts diagram of the Sette 270 here:
http://www.baratza.com/wp-content/uploa ... 2-2017.pdf

They replace part SA3 as a single unit.

collinsad wrote:Yes, they are. The dc motor, gearbox, and ring burr are replaced as a single unit. You now have a new ring burr and your original cone burr which in part explains the change in grind shim and setting.

My 270W motor was replaced by Baratza due to a broken commutator at about 5 or so months. As I live in Seattle I just drove the grinder over to the Baratza office and they fixed it on the spot as I watched. They mentioned there was a manufacturing flaw with the dc motor commutator/armature windings region which can cause dead spots in the motor. If the motor stops rotating at a dead spot, it will not grind. If you turn the ring burr a little out of the 'dead zone' you can make the motor work again... until you stop on the dead spot again. Think of it like Russian roulette. I believe this is what others have found, which can be confusing to diagnose: One day grinder counts down/lights up but the motor doesn't turn; user tries various troubleshooting including removing the lower burr, thereby rotating the motor out of the dead spot; grinder works again until it stops in a dead zone.

A lot of user experiences the same. How we can turn the ring burr out of the dead zone?

If you're not supremely confident with electronics/motors I'd recommend leaving the troubleshooting/fixing up to professionals as there is a risk of being injured otherwise. That said...
Remove the lower burr carrier and use a tool to rotate the ring burr. It's not easy due to a 19:1 gearbox. Be aware the ring burr could rotate for a split second as you leave the dead spot due to stored energy in the starting capacitor. This is not a fix as the grinder won't work if it stops rotating at a dead spot - It'll still need to have a new motor put in.

ohhh i think it's better to send it to the service:)

Dead spots on the armature of a DC motor are nothing new... Unless they are happening to a new motor. This is not an uncommon way for car starters to die.

So anyway, if a batch of bad motors is the problem, then it seems like it might equally afflict the regular Sette as the -W version.

-Peter