I was mildly curious about the Z-P6 grinder after Lance's endorsement video. I've seen examples of products Lance endorsed actually kind of sucking (lately there have been a slew of complaints about the Camperista3D chute for the DF64 which Lance wholeheartedly endorsed), so obviously its important to take the endorsement of a social media influencer with a grain of salt. However, what was interesting about the Z-P6 is that it seemed to use the same burrs as the discontinued JS, however with improved alignment. Which led me to wonder if anyone has tried improving on the factory alignment of the 1zpresso grinders, to see how much extra clarity they can squeeze out of the grinder.

There's this one lonely video on the topic: Anyone else tried this? Or is the factory alignment already so good that you'd be chasing basely detectable improvements?

To answer your first question, No I haven't tried it because my JX-Pro arrived with burrs well-aligned. Mr. Maurice makes it clear his grinder lost alignment because he went too far in disassembling it. My experience with 1zpresso is that the company is very responsive to consumer questions and complaints. I got a grinder from them (J-Max) that had a coating defect on one of the burrs, emailed them a photo, and they exchanged the grinder for a new one (and shipping was paid by them). So if your grinder is out of alignment (due to their manufacturing error) I'm fairly certain they will fix the problem. I suspect they might even fix it for you if you ship it to them at your expense if you created the problem by misuse...

You could check your grinder's alignment by using the method Maurice discusses in the video. If it is within specs, I'd suggest leaving it alone. Otherwise, you could try the technique (sequentially adjusting the burr set screws until its withing alignment specs), with the caveat that you will void your warranty..

Just got a new Q2. For reference the burrs stopped touching once I got to the 7th click out from full burr lock. Given a full rotation (30 clicks) moves the burr 0.75mm, I'd say that's darned good for a new grinder. And based on prior experience aligning a Lido ET, I'd also say if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

i think italmill burr have a flat surface at the cone edge, while k burr have teeth all the way. it is possible to slot the inner teeth between outer teeth, possibly going to less than 0, i.e the cone goes inside the outer burr pair, while margin for italmill is probably only up to 0.

i dont have a kinu, but here's arco. visually i can assume kinu (also using italmill) have more gaps to avoid burr rub even at its closest touch point, while k burr can overlap tooth before it even touches each other. 7 clicks 1zk are also pure dusts.

if comparing flats, burr chirps are light touch and can still spin. but flattening both burrs will fill burr gap and jam it.

Jonk wrote: Not sure what you mean here.

here's a negative gap for flat burr. it has already pass touch point or chirping. if u turn on ur grinder here u will likely break something

i'm just saying its possible kinu burr will never overlap due to the straight wall, therefore can still spins without rub while not allowing any grinds through, with 1z still allowing grinds to pass even at burr rub due to this tooth overlap (while damaging your burr edge instead).

i am not denying that your theory is correct, but it would also mean you will need proper measuring and machining tools to make micron adjustments. i dont see this any difference than the usable but similarly flawed marker test for flat burr alignment in this context since those are already best case without the need of specialty tool.

regardless, it may be possible that the outer burr mount screw can be tightened with different tolerance enough to affect the outer burr position. you can try do this adjustment and see if you can probably reduce the burr rub down to 2-3 clicks instead?

i have tried slowly turning my 1z k. at 6 clicks there is a minor rubbing sound only at specific degree of turns, suggesting offset-alignment. slowly turning however and i have coffee dust accumulates between the inner and outer burr exit throughout the circular exit, suggesting grinding is still possible. it gets almost jumpy at lesser clicks, i didnt try further. its probably making extreme use of the bearing play by that point.

comparably to the timemore c2 shaft is very much centered. c2 bracket is plastic and can warp (permanently) even under beans load (forced mis-alignment xD) my grinds are coarser with more boulders on c2 compared to when its new (i still use it in office). i now grind finer but the cups are still enjoyable.

I just got a JMax myself and found that the factory zero setting was at least 10 clicks from the burrs touching. I followed the guidelines in the manual for calibration and found the same as what you did I believe. That if I stopped just at the point of the burrs touching with discernable feedback I was only getting that at a couple of points in the rotation. Annoying perhaps but I'm not losing any sleep over it. I mean we're talking adjustments of .0088mm right? But just where should the zero be set?

I calibrated mine so that I just get that feed back when at the factory zero mark before I used it for the first time. I then started with a pour-over and went to 270 clicks, right in the middle of their recommended range for that brew. The resulting grind was a bit too course for my liking and brew method but it was certainly very uniform visually.

I started to just look at 1Z's chart for recommended grinds and I can't say as it's lining up with recommended grind sizes based on microns. I mean if 0 is not grinding, 1100 microns should be about 125 clicks. But that's more like the middle of their recommended espresso range. Not that it matters. I was just playing with the math and trying to see how their grind chart worked within that 8.8 micron adjustment. I was thinking it would be nice to be able to say I want to go to an 800 micron setting and to do the math and then dial it in. I wish I hade a set of Kruve screens just to find a benchmark.