The Alicorn: Achieving Precision Alignment with the Baratza Forté/Vario - Page 36

Grinders are one of the keys to exceptional espresso. Discuss them here.
Acorazza

#351: Post by Acorazza »

Does anyone know if the D shaft motor is an actual upgrade. The set screw failed on mine and I have the older non-D motor but I need to buy a new pulley and set screw as my old set screw essentially disintegrated and seized to the old one. I also found some metal debris on top of the motor but I think its ok. Is it worth getting the new D motor and pulley or should I just get another pulley for my current motor?

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Jake_G
Team HB

#352: Post by Jake_G »

I will be able to tell you by the end of the week.

My gut says yes. The helix shaft on the old motors is garbage.
The D-shaft should spin true and virtually eliminate belt wobble. The drive sprocket is often offset on the helix shaft and wobbles to and fro .050-.060" at times!

Cheers!

- Jake
LMWDP #704

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Acorazza

#353: Post by Acorazza »

Ya I bought mine used and the Burrs have been taco'd before as they have some marks on the edges. The grinder was working great and I aligned it reasonably well and it ground well for my pour overs but then I adjusted for espresso and the set screw gave out. The motor just spun up like crazy so I took it apart and tightened the set screw and it gave up again. Probably because it was already damaged. On top of that the stop button on my screen stopped working after the last time I took it apart so now Im debating on buying everything new and overhauling the grinder (New motor, new screen, new burrs)

baldheadracing
Supporter ♡

#354: Post by baldheadracing »

[quote="Acorazza"]Ya I bought mine used and the Burrs have been taco'd before as they have some marks on the edges. The grinder was working great and I aligned it reasonably well and it ground well for my pour overs but then I adjusted for espresso and the set screw gave out. The motor just spun up like crazy so I took it apart and tightened the set screw and it gave up again. Probably because it was already damaged. On top of that the stop button on my screen stopped working after the last time I took it apart so now Im debating on buying everything new and overhauling the grinder (New motor, new screen, new burrs)[/quote]

With all that plus an unknown history, it might work out easiest to send the grinder back to Baratza for their fixed-price repair program, which includes parts (except new burrs). You can get new burrs installed at the same time. I believe that you can also buy the Forté grind chamber at the same time and have it fitted - that's what I did.

The drive sprocket should fail before the helical shaft. Something has to be the weak point when rocks enter the grind chamber, and it should be the least-expensive part - the drive sprocket.

Acorazza

#355: Post by Acorazza »

baldheadracing wrote: With all that plus an unknown history, it might work out easiest to send the grinder back to Baratza for their fixed-price repair program, which includes parts (except new burrs). You can get new burrs installed at the same time. I believe that you can also buy the Forté grind chamber at the same time and have it fitted - that's what I did.

The drive sprocket should fail before the helical shaft. Something has to be the weak point when rocks enter the grind chamber, and it should be the least-expensive part - the drive sprocket.
I'm not too worried about taking it apart as I have already done so a few times and the grinder was working great before hand. I have had it for a few years now so even though it has an unknown history, its been pretty solid for me up until now. I never really used it for espresso and the beans were a pretty light roast so I think that caused the set screw to fail. Even after tightening it previously, it worked fine for my pour overs until I tried espresso again. The extra resistance from trying to grind fine just pushed it over the edge and I figure if I'm gonna start replacing things I may as well do it all. The grinder is a great and built like a tank and its size is small enough that I don't really see myself getting rid of it soon. Also, it is a Forte BG so I already have the forte grind chamber and other parts. The helical shaft looks fine, as does the drive sprocket, but the set screw is seized and I cannot get it out. It has been ground smooth by the helical shaft and won't allow me to turn it out of the drive sprocket.

baldheadracing
Supporter ♡

#356: Post by baldheadracing »

I was just thinking a new display and a new motor would be $80, and the repair program is $90. However, if there is nothing wrong with the motor, then it won't be replaced of course.

Carry on :wink: .

talexk2424

#357: Post by talexk2424 »

Had a question about grinding espresso with Steel burrs on a forte. I did the alignment and got almost perfect burr wipe. And I calibrated the burrs to touch at 2Q but for some light roast coffees I have to go below 2Q to get a good shot. Is this hard on the burrs and going to cause premature wear? Is something not right yet with the alignment? Or is this normal to go below burr touch? Thanks

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Jake_G
Team HB

#358: Post by Jake_G »

It is ok to go below burr touch so long as you are grinding beans.

Not great to run them there "unlubricated" for extended periods as it is hard on the burrs.

Cheers!

- Jake
LMWDP #704

pmark

#359: Post by pmark »

Jake_G wrote:I will be able to tell you by the end of the week.

My gut says yes. The helix shaft on the old motors is garbage.
The D-shaft should spin true and virtually eliminate belt wobble. The drive sprocket is often offset on the helix shaft and wobbles to and fro .050-.060" at times!

Cheers!

- Jake
Hello Jake, did you finally get a chance to test the D shaft motor? I still have the misalignment on my lower burrs (as seen on a slow-mo video I posted earlier on this thread) and was wondering if it could fix my problem? I'd interested on your impressions
Thanks

Jack.123

#360: Post by Jack.123 »

Hey just wondering if anyone could give me any advice. I have aligned my forte using the above method however in the many attempts it took me to do this it seems I accidentally stripped the secondary calibration screw. I messaged baratza who recommended I add a layer of teflon tape to the screw, however this seemed to further expedite the process. Just wondering if anyone knows of any fix I could do. the threads only being in plastic would it be possible to use a larger set screw (however not sure i could find one with the same design (long spike at end)).

-at the moment it appears my grinder does not hold calibration well- moving from 3I - 2I from only 200g of beans being ground.