Quester wrote:Peter, I just saw this--a nice addition to the process!

I can claim no credit for it. It's all Andy. But I can confirm it's usefulness.

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ETA: As to not have too much of a content-free, bandwidth wasting post, I added a paragraph to my writeup on page 28:

new paragraph:
7) What I will do next time: The screws... They are almost all, metric M3 x 0.5 (diameter x threads per mm pitch). When my Forte comes in the mail this weekend, after disassembly, I'll go to the hardware store and get some M3 x 0.5 Allen headed cap screws, and a skinny hex head screw driver for them, and replace all the cheap Phillips heads. The Allen screws will be easier and stand up to more frequent loosening if one is going to spend the twenty minutes or so to do this job every few months as I plan too.

-Peter

Hi Peter,

Thanks so much for sharing this method. When I attempted the Alicorn alignment on my Forte BG, the "bouncing levers" step was the most confusing part to me. I'm so excited to try this new method. I've ordered the clamp from Amazon which should arrive this Wednesday.

I'm not a very handy person, so please excuse my potentially stupid questions:

1. Before applying the clamp, should the levers be left on the loose end? Like 10 Z, to make sure the burrs do not touch? Or is it better to use the levers to achieve contact first, before applying the clamp?

2. I've never used a woodwork bar clamps. The clamp you linked to (and I bought) has a "100 lb" force marked. Should we just keep squeezing the clamp? Could it potentially apply "too much" force and cause damages to the burr sets?

Thanks in advance.

You should be able to "feel" the burrs coming into contact as you squeeze the clamp. Then you won't have to do much more force beyond that point. I've got another Forte waiting for me when I get home from this trip I'm on. I will align it tomorrow and hopefully have more to share then.

-Peter

Got my quick clamps out of the shed so will be giving this a go tomorrow.

Does anyone have any thoughts as to what could cause the front of the burrs to touch first?

Interesting idea to upgrade the bolts. I could be tempted to consider thread inserts to be honest! The plastic seems particularly vulnerable.


E

ETABLERT wrote: Interesting idea to upgrade the bolts. I could be tempted to consider thread inserts to be honest! The plastic seems particularly vulnerable.


E

I don't think you will need inserts. On my Vario at least, the threads clamp on the plastic, but thread into metal. My Forte arrived and I will open it today but I bet it's the same way.

-Peter

Jake_G wrote:Once fortified, yes.

On a stock Vario, the screws are effectively behaving like wood screws, clamping plastic by threading into plastic.

Cheers!

- Jake

In fact, for screwing into plastic, they are wood-type-screws, and not the M3 x 0.5 machine screws which one might otherwise want inserts for, if they were to be screwed into plastic.

-Peter

So I went through this process with the quick clamp and found it easier because it eliminates the need to "feel" the alignment. However, I'm still having the issue of the front of the burrs touching first and the belt is much tighter so I don't think that's the issue. My current guesses are either wobble in the drive pulley (which is clearly visible) or that I'm doing something wrong.


E

Hi Jake,

New guy here. Thanks for your incredible contributions again!

In order to loosen the belt, should we only loosen the back screw, or loosen all three screws, with the 3mm hex? My understanding is that the two side ones should be firm, and only the back one should be loosened?