The Alicorn: Achieving Precision Alignment with the Baratza Forté/Vario - Page 13
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Over the past few weeks I have been compiling a "roundup" of the Alicorn process with Jake's help. He's been incredibly patient answering all of my questions! This document pairs well with his videos, and each step is written out in detail.
Alicorn Alignment Roundup - Google Docs
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Nhu ... sp=sharing
Please feel free to suggest any edits and inclusions on the document. Hopefully this helps clarify the process!
Alicorn Alignment Roundup - Google Docs
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Nhu ... sp=sharing
Please feel free to suggest any edits and inclusions on the document. Hopefully this helps clarify the process!
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Thank you for compiling all of this in one place. Did you do this with the original plastic Vario burr carrier or did you order the upgrade?
My suggestion would be to add some clear photos of each step or, even better to add video time stamps and break down the steps a little finer. Jake's video is better than the photos in the original threads but it is just too poorly shot to illustrate exactly what is being moved in each phase and why. I'm dying to do this but since this is my only grinder the idea of no espresso for weeks should something not work out is unappealing for obvious reasons.
And to state the obvious MANY thanks to Jake for coming up with this in the first place. The video may be lacking but what an inspired idea.
My suggestion would be to add some clear photos of each step or, even better to add video time stamps and break down the steps a little finer. Jake's video is better than the photos in the original threads but it is just too poorly shot to illustrate exactly what is being moved in each phase and why. I'm dying to do this but since this is my only grinder the idea of no espresso for weeks should something not work out is unappealing for obvious reasons.
And to state the obvious MANY thanks to Jake for coming up with this in the first place. The video may be lacking but what an inspired idea.
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As one of the people contemplating a steel forte, I remember reading somewhere if you tighten the burrs to finger tight by holding the shaft of a screwdriver, it will be good enough to prevent TBS. Have I misremembered it? Or should I source some glue as suggested by baratza guy?
I don't have access to a 3d printer so won't be able to print it, and sanding it down sounds like a whole lot of fun
From what I have gathered so far, I should be able to follow both the pictorial guide for vario and the videos here for forte, as the internals are similar?
And not gonna lie, really hoping the initial alignment is ok like the guy from the vario thread and he was told not to mess with the internals due to the ink test being good enough
I don't have access to a 3d printer so won't be able to print it, and sanding it down sounds like a whole lot of fun
From what I have gathered so far, I should be able to follow both the pictorial guide for vario and the videos here for forte, as the internals are similar?
And not gonna lie, really hoping the initial alignment is ok like the guy from the vario thread and he was told not to mess with the internals due to the ink test being good enough
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I did it with a Forté BG.PIXIllate wrote:Did you do this with the original plastic Vario burr carrier or did you order the upgrade?
I'll do this tomorrow!...even better to add video time stamps and break down the steps a little finer.
I'm not sure if it will hold or slip in the future, but this is how Jake_G instructs us to tighten the burr screws before alignment.neohk wrote:I remember reading somewhere if you tighten the burrs to finger tight by holding the shaft of a screwdriver, it will be good enough to prevent TBS.
You misread - that photo was his dry erase pattern on ceramic after alignment. I saw that post too.And not gonna lie, really hoping the initial alignment is ok like the guy from the vario thread and he was told not to mess with the internals due to the ink test being good enough
- Jake_G
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This is specifically to ensure that the burrs are flat during the alignment process. If you tighten the screws too much the burrs will flex and it will be impossible to get an even ink pattern. I tighten the screws just enough that the burrs don't move in the carriers for the alignment process. After the alignment is complete, tighten the screws as much as you can without disturbing the ink pattern. The spacers ensure that you can tighten the screws quite tight (as much as you like, really) and the burrs won't flex. Otherwise it is up to you to determine how tight you can go without getting a case of TBS. I always recommend using spacers to ensure the burrs can be properly secured while retaining alignment.gritts wrote:I'm not sure if it will hold or slip in the future, but this is how Jake_G instructs us to tighten the burr screws before alignment
Cheers!
- Jake
LMWDP #704
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For those of us without a printer or want to get something that doesn't require hours of sanding, would a 'hive' of 0.06" thick washers work similarly?
then just need to find the right material that's both hard-wearing and resistant to coffee oils
then just need to find the right material that's both hard-wearing and resistant to coffee oils
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I just finished adding the timestamps.PIXIllate wrote:...even better to add video time stamps and break down the steps a little finer.
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Nhu ... sp=sharing
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I did the sanding in about 20 minutes total. I tried to be very careful of removing too much material, so I definitely took my time. Wasn't hours!neohk wrote:For those of us without a printer or want to get something that doesn't require hours of sanding, would a 'hive' of 0.06" thick washers work similarly?
then just need to find the right material that's both hard-wearing and resistant to coffee oils
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Oh ic
So I just need to find a 3d printer
400 sandpaper is it? Thanks!
(DIY hasn't ever been my thing so hopefully i am not misunderstanding anything)
So I just need to find a 3d printer
400 sandpaper is it? Thanks!
(DIY hasn't ever been my thing so hopefully i am not misunderstanding anything)
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- A 3D printer or simply the spacers printed by a friend, service, or fellow user. Maybe Jake_G can share an OBJ file with us?
- 150 grit wet/dry sandpaper
- 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper