Quickmill QM67 (New Model) Panel Removal and Pump Replacement
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ginganian
- Posts: 1
- Joined: 1 year ago
My QM67's pump gave out after a very short 5 months. Thankfully it was under warranty, and in order to not spend hundreds to ship the machine to/from the seller's store I decided to just replace it myself.
The seller provided a new pump free of charge, but unfortunately for me all of the replacement guides I could find were for the pre-2019 model. So I dove in, took a lot of pictures, suffered a moderate amount, and decided to put this together for any future poor souls in the same position.
What you'll need:
If you're here there's a good chance you attempted descaling before deciding to replace the pump. If so, you may want to consider draining the boilers of any vinegar/descaling solution to make cycling the water easier after you're done.
Find a creative way to get underneath the machine, and remove the 6 acorn nuts holding the access panel in place:
There will be two ports, loosen the tips of the ports by hand and let them drain out until empty:
userpix/106216_pxl_20230428_174919707_- ... 1014JL.jpg
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Now for the actual pump replacement - Start by removing the top panel and water tank.
Underneath you'll find a total of 6 Philips head screws you need to remove. 2 up front, 2 holding the back panel on, and 2 holding the cup rail.
You'll also need to unscrew the nut holding the OPV adjustment screw in place.
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In the reservoir cubby there are two nuts a bit further down, one on each side of the machine. These hold studs that allow the back panel to clip onto the side panels.
While I'm sure you could pry the back panel off, the studs take a lot of force to remove from their clips, so I highly recommend you just undo the nuts holding the studs in place.
The nuts are 7mm, so grab a small wrench and put those dainty hands to use. Get them loosened then carefully remove by hand.
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With the above screws and nuts removed you should now be able to remove the back panel. Pull it out from the bottom and slide it down to detach it from the cup rail.
You'll now be able to remove the cup rail from the side panels. From the back, arch the cup rail up, and pull it back to remove:
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From the back of the machine there are 3 screws you need to remove. 2 holding the side panels, and one holding the center panel:
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The two side panels can be removed by sliding them up about a half inch, then pulling them out. The center panel should be the only panel left:
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Use a cloth to dab away any excess water left in the reservoir attachment port, then lift up the center panel and tilt it back so you can get underneath it.
Detach the water tube from the panel. I found it easiest to remove the white fitting directly from the reservoir attachment port.
You shouldn't need to remove the wires for the low water alert. Mine were long enough to allow me to set the panel to the side of the machine after detaching the water tube.
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With all the panels gone we can fully access the pump.
Remove the fitting holding the output tube in place.
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Remove the screw holding the vibration dampener in place.
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Detach the two connectors and the blue thermal fuse from the pump, then, if you're able, remove the water tube's fitting from the inlet of the pump.
I wasn't able to get enough leverage to remove the fitting with the pump in place, so I pulled the water tubing through the dampener opening and removed it from there as shown in the second picture:
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With your pump out you now just need to remove the outlet assembly from the old pump and install it on the new pump.
Move the vibration dampener down and use a 12mm wrench to hold the pump outlet shaft in place. The plastic assembly should twist off by hand.
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Throw some plumber's tape on the outlet assembly and attach it to your new pump. Don't forget to put the vibration dampener on first, and be careful not to over tighten!
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Now install your new pump in the reverse manner you removed it. I recommend putting the center panel and reservoir back on and testing to make sure the new pump works before installing the side and rear panels.
Before continuing with re-assembly you'll need to remove the studs from the back panel. I threaded a nut onto the top of the stud, then used a set of pliers to remove it like I was pulling a tooth out.
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Once you have the studs removed, reattach them to the side panels.
The studs can be held by a 6mm wrench, while using a 7mm wrench to tighten the bolt. They go in the second hole from the bottom, studs facing outwards.
Make sure the stud nuts are secure, but not too tight. Future you will thank yourself when you're replacing the pump again.
Picture for reference, but you'll do this before reinstalling the side panels on the machine:
-------------------------
With the studs in place you can continue with reassembly, which is just reverse of disassembly with the exception that you'll push the rear panel into the studs, instead of fussing with your nuts.
-------------------------
The seller provided a new pump free of charge, but unfortunately for me all of the replacement guides I could find were for the pre-2019 model. So I dove in, took a lot of pictures, suffered a moderate amount, and decided to put this together for any future poor souls in the same position.
What you'll need:
- 6mm, 7mm, & 12mm wrenches
- Screwdrivers - a few screws are at weird angles, so a 90 degree screwdriver is a big help
- Plumber's tape
- Your new pump
If you're here there's a good chance you attempted descaling before deciding to replace the pump. If so, you may want to consider draining the boilers of any vinegar/descaling solution to make cycling the water easier after you're done.
Find a creative way to get underneath the machine, and remove the 6 acorn nuts holding the access panel in place:
There will be two ports, loosen the tips of the ports by hand and let them drain out until empty:
userpix/106216_pxl_20230428_174919707_- ... 1014JL.jpg
-------------------------
Now for the actual pump replacement - Start by removing the top panel and water tank.
Underneath you'll find a total of 6 Philips head screws you need to remove. 2 up front, 2 holding the back panel on, and 2 holding the cup rail.
You'll also need to unscrew the nut holding the OPV adjustment screw in place.
-------------------------
In the reservoir cubby there are two nuts a bit further down, one on each side of the machine. These hold studs that allow the back panel to clip onto the side panels.
While I'm sure you could pry the back panel off, the studs take a lot of force to remove from their clips, so I highly recommend you just undo the nuts holding the studs in place.
The nuts are 7mm, so grab a small wrench and put those dainty hands to use. Get them loosened then carefully remove by hand.
-------------------------
With the above screws and nuts removed you should now be able to remove the back panel. Pull it out from the bottom and slide it down to detach it from the cup rail.
You'll now be able to remove the cup rail from the side panels. From the back, arch the cup rail up, and pull it back to remove:
-------------------------
From the back of the machine there are 3 screws you need to remove. 2 holding the side panels, and one holding the center panel:
-------------------------
The two side panels can be removed by sliding them up about a half inch, then pulling them out. The center panel should be the only panel left:
-------------------------
Use a cloth to dab away any excess water left in the reservoir attachment port, then lift up the center panel and tilt it back so you can get underneath it.
Detach the water tube from the panel. I found it easiest to remove the white fitting directly from the reservoir attachment port.
You shouldn't need to remove the wires for the low water alert. Mine were long enough to allow me to set the panel to the side of the machine after detaching the water tube.
-------------------------
With all the panels gone we can fully access the pump.
Remove the fitting holding the output tube in place.
-------------------------
Remove the screw holding the vibration dampener in place.
-------------------------
Detach the two connectors and the blue thermal fuse from the pump, then, if you're able, remove the water tube's fitting from the inlet of the pump.
I wasn't able to get enough leverage to remove the fitting with the pump in place, so I pulled the water tubing through the dampener opening and removed it from there as shown in the second picture:
-------------------------
With your pump out you now just need to remove the outlet assembly from the old pump and install it on the new pump.
Move the vibration dampener down and use a 12mm wrench to hold the pump outlet shaft in place. The plastic assembly should twist off by hand.
-------------------------
Throw some plumber's tape on the outlet assembly and attach it to your new pump. Don't forget to put the vibration dampener on first, and be careful not to over tighten!
-------------------------
Now install your new pump in the reverse manner you removed it. I recommend putting the center panel and reservoir back on and testing to make sure the new pump works before installing the side and rear panels.
Before continuing with re-assembly you'll need to remove the studs from the back panel. I threaded a nut onto the top of the stud, then used a set of pliers to remove it like I was pulling a tooth out.
-------------------------
Once you have the studs removed, reattach them to the side panels.
The studs can be held by a 6mm wrench, while using a 7mm wrench to tighten the bolt. They go in the second hole from the bottom, studs facing outwards.
Make sure the stud nuts are secure, but not too tight. Future you will thank yourself when you're replacing the pump again.
Picture for reference, but you'll do this before reinstalling the side panels on the machine:
-------------------------
With the studs in place you can continue with reassembly, which is just reverse of disassembly with the exception that you'll push the rear panel into the studs, instead of fussing with your nuts.
-------------------------
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Mr_Biggles
- Posts: 9
- Joined: 3 years ago
Wow! For various reasons I have had the panels off 3 or 4 times in the 4+ years I have owned my QM67. Never once noticed that the studs could be removed from the back panel! That would have saved a lot of aggravation. I always fuss with the nuts, drop them a few times, pick them back up with long mechanical fingers and then finally get them treaded on. So thank you!
Also frustrated by the lack of exploded views available for the newer version. A while back I traded emails with a distributor who said they would post the newer ones but it never happened.
Also frustrated by the lack of exploded views available for the newer version. A while back I traded emails with a distributor who said they would post the newer ones but it never happened.
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GreenEggsAndSam
- Posts: 69
- Joined: 5 years ago
I have the complete parts breakdown for the newer QM67, and would be happy to PM it to you. HB comment system won't let me drop it in the comment.Also frustrated by the lack of exploded views available for the newer version. A while back I traded emails with a distributor who said they would post the newer ones but it never happened.
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GreenEggsAndSam
- Posts: 69
- Joined: 5 years ago
Can I recommend an easier way? Once you remove the two screws holding the rear panel onto the side panel from the top, you can rotate the machine around so that the back of the machine is facing you, with the rear feet right at the edge of your counter. Then, insert a large philips head screwdriver into the seam between the rear panel and the frame of the machine. Twist the screwdriver, or move it in a gently prying motion, and those studs will pop right out without needing to unscrew them from the frame. This is what they were designed for.Before continuing with re-assembly you'll need to remove the studs from the back panel. I threaded a nut onto the top of the stud, then used a set of pliers to remove it like I was pulling a tooth out.
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Mr_Biggles
- Posts: 9
- Joined: 3 years ago
Sorry for the late response. I may have finally figured out why I haven't been getting notifications!GreenEggsAndSam wrote:I have the complete parts breakdown for the newer QM67, and would be happy to PM it to you. HB comment system won't let me drop it in the comment.
If the offer still stands on the parts diagrams, that would be great if you could PM them to me. Much appreciated
