Sealant for La Pavoni Europiccola heating element/boiler
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- Posts: 12
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Hello,
I have a LP pre-mill Europiccola that is leaking from between where the heating element and boiler connects.
I'm thinking of purchasing a sealant to seal in the gaps - does anyone have any recommendations for a sealant I can use? I have seen Molykote 111, but just want to make sure its suitable before using.
I have a LP pre-mill Europiccola that is leaking from between where the heating element and boiler connects.
I'm thinking of purchasing a sealant to seal in the gaps - does anyone have any recommendations for a sealant I can use? I have seen Molykote 111, but just want to make sure its suitable before using.
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- Team HB
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Molykote 111 is a silicone grease.
The base of the boiler seals against the boiler with a gasket in all of the europiccolas I've ever seen. The three eared ones use an o-ring type, the screw on ones use a fibrous gasket.
The base of the boiler seals against the boiler with a gasket in all of the europiccolas I've ever seen. The three eared ones use an o-ring type, the screw on ones use a fibrous gasket.
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- Posts: 12
- Joined: 2 years ago
I understand. I have a gasket, however there are leaks coming through. So without having to change the boiler or heating element, I'm wondering if I can use a sealant to seal in any gaps so leaks cannot come through - hence the question on recommendations for a sealant!JRising wrote:Molykote 111 is a silicone grease.
The base of the boiler seals against the boiler with a gasket in all of the europiccolas I've ever seen. The three eared ones use an o-ring type, the screw on ones use a fibrous gasket.
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- Supporter ♡
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The water is leaking out under pressure, so there really is no good way to apply a sealant externally and expect it to stop the leak. I suppose if you didn't mind sealing it permanently, you could clean it up really well (get everything around the seam down to bare metal) and silver braze the whole thing shut. You probably don't want to do that.
Some folks might try running a bead of J-B Weld (instead of brazing) around the seam. It might hold and you might be able to get it apart later, but I wouldn't recommend it.
What I would recommend is taking it apart, cleaning all the surfaces, getting a new gasket, using any appropriate gasket dope recommended by the manufacturer, and torquing the bolts back on.
Some folks might try running a bead of J-B Weld (instead of brazing) around the seam. It might hold and you might be able to get it apart later, but I wouldn't recommend it.
What I would recommend is taking it apart, cleaning all the surfaces, getting a new gasket, using any appropriate gasket dope recommended by the manufacturer, and torquing the bolts back on.
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- Team HB
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But why is it leaking over the gasket? Is something cracked or bent? Is the metal pitted or gouged?
Or are you saying the gasket is old and leaking, but you'd rather do something other than replace it with the proper gasket?
Or are you saying the gasket is old and leaking, but you'd rather do something other than replace it with the proper gasket?
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- Posts: 12
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I've replaced the gasket twice, with no success. So I suspect its because the surface where the boiler touches the gasket has gaps, probably because as you said, the metal is pitted.
And replacing the boiler is largely equivalent to getting a new machine, so I'm trying to exhaust all alternatives before replacing a new boiler or getting a new machine.
And replacing the boiler is largely equivalent to getting a new machine, so I'm trying to exhaust all alternatives before replacing a new boiler or getting a new machine.
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- Team HB
- Posts: 3714
- Joined: 5 years ago
If you can see the pitted/damaged spots on the bottom edge of the boiler, you could judge for yourself how many hours it would take rotating the boiler on extra fine sandpaper of a perfectly flat surface to make it perfect again. Decide if it's worth it to you. My estimate, without seeing it, would be 2 hours labour, I have done plenty of Silvia boilers to which someone has allowed a long-term leak to leave calcium-rich canyons in the brass.
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As others have pointed out, the rounded o-ring style gasket for gen2 and later SS elements has a small mating seal surface area, and if the bottom of the boiler is pitted, it can leak. Sanding usually takes care of the problem.
Sometimes the bottom flange of the boiler is warped, preventing a good seal. It could be worth your while to try and use the thicker o-ring specifically designed for problems like this. It is available here: https://www.espressocare.com/products/i ... et-thicker
And yes, use a silicon lubricant like Dow-111 liberally on this gasket - it helps with seating it.
Also if you have a brass element, use the flat washer instead of the o-ring type
Sometimes the bottom flange of the boiler is warped, preventing a good seal. It could be worth your while to try and use the thicker o-ring specifically designed for problems like this. It is available here: https://www.espressocare.com/products/i ... et-thicker
And yes, use a silicon lubricant like Dow-111 liberally on this gasket - it helps with seating it.
Also if you have a brass element, use the flat washer instead of the o-ring type