Help requested - Gicar RL30 Micro ST repair

#1: Post by **slotcar** » July 26th, 2022, 7:06 pm

Hi All,

My first post here! Thanks first to those whose posts I read before setting up my Espresso kit!

I have a Fiorenzato Bricoletta which I have just been doing up and fitted some nice joystick taps to although I have a problem with, I presume the water level regulator (RL30 Micro ST). When turning on the green light (to show the water level is ok), would not light and the relay would click on and off. As mentioned in a previous post I found here, the same situation was occuring... I could lift and lower the water tank repeatedly to get the relay to stay on and the machine would run normally.

Since fitting the taps and reassembling, now the green light won't come on at all and machine will not operate. I would like to replace the relays although I cannot find the middle relay to purchase and I wonder if mine has the original relay anyway. It looks to have been resoldered, is a different brand and so, it may be a new part? It is also an 18v relay where the others are 12v so I'd like to check that that is correct...

Does anyone know the parts code for the original relays?

I have these three in mine:

JQX-14FW
G2RL-2A (18v)
JQX-115F (12v)

I will remove the relays soon anyway to be able to check them all as well as the 3 diodes.

I will certainly appreciate any help!

Cheers,
Damo!

#2: Post by **ira** » July 28th, 2022, 3:08 am

I would assume that if 2 of the relays are 12V that the third should be also, but I don't know exactly what that one is. I've repaired a few older boxes, mostly power supply issues and one relay. It would not surprise me to discover that an 18V relay might work, it would also not surprise me to discover that putting in an 18V relay did not solve the problem. I checked the P/N for the 18V relay, G2RL-2A, and discovered that you can just add 12V to the end and get that same relay in a 12V version, G2RL-2A-DC12.

I will point out that replacing the taps should not have effected the electrical operation of the machine, but since you were having problems with the tank empty switch that you might start looking there.

#3: Post by **BaristaBoy E61** » July 28th, 2022, 5:55 am

Welcome to HB Damien

If your machine has a direct plumbed in mode with a switch to change modes that turns off the reservoir float circuit, I would try that first as an experiment to see if that gets things running so that the float circuit can be ruled out.

July 28th, 2022, 7:25 pm

Hi,

Thanks for the replies. Ira, I will order a 12v relay to swap out and test. Currently I am having trouble desoldering the original relays, my solder pump isn't quite doint the job but I have a neighbour who is great on electronics so I'll enlist his help soon.
Once they are out, I can remove one end of each of the diode to test too, just in case and since capacitors are easy to get, I may as well test those too.
It takes a little time to get components freighted out here in New Zealand from overseas so fingers crossed I can get some soon. I'll post the success or failure results as soon as I can.

In the past I have had it all apart and put it back together with no problem (excepet having to trick the relays by lifting the water tank up and down) so I didn't think the tap replacement would make a difference but in the time the taps were off the machine has been sitting for a couple of months. Not sure if the time without operation could have any effect?

I appreciate the comments guys, lets me know what to try next!

Regards,
Damo.

#5: Post by **ira** » July 28th, 2022, 11:39 pm

I've got a Hakko 808 which makes things like this a breeze, with a solder sucker, it's hard. Sometimes desoldering and then putting new solder on makes it easier to get the solder out the second time. Liberally apply flux if you have it. And try to keep the iron on the edge of the joint when you suck to make sure the solder stays liquid.