Vacuum Relief Valve O-Ring Repair vs Full Replacement?

#1: Post by **dsc106** » December 12th, 2021, 4:15 pm

I had a vacuum breaker valve (anti vacuum valve, vacuum relief valve) that was stuck open causing undo venting. I ordered a whole OEM replacement part that arrives later this week, but in the interim, I successfully fixed it by simply replacing the red 007 o-ring, and all seems well now.

In your experience, how long will this repair hold for? Ought I swap in the whole new valve when it comes, or will this one last me another year or so? (My machine is on 16-18 hours a day, and it took about a year for the first o-ring to break down).

Next question, when I put the valve back in, I used Teflon tape around the threads. Is there anything I need to be careful of when removing and reinserting in the future? Is it easy for pieces of the Teflon tape to come loose and drop into the steam boiler when removed? Or get stuck to the threading?

December 12th, 2021, 5:10 pm

New valve should be replaced like old valve was installed. However, I would keep the new valve as the spare as you already repaired the problem.

Your water quality as it relates to scale will be the biggest factor as to how long the fix holds for.

You need non-scaling water for your machine's longevity to be problem free.

#3: Post by **cafeIKE** » December 12th, 2021, 5:23 pm

The o-ring should last a while.

Personally, I like a copper crush washer if the boiler face or fitting is machined smooth. Never drop any tape or sealant in the boiler.

And this style as they last a lot longer. Similar models come with a hose attachment to bleed the spray.

For over 10 years, I've used a cover with minimal residue build up.

December 12th, 2021, 5:55 pm

Good, I will just hang onto the replacement part as a backup next time I need to service.

Thanks Ian, is that the same as this piece:

https://www.1st-line.com/buy/ecm-c219900561/

Or different? What is the difference if not the same?

I believe my boiler face is machined smooth... it's the ECM Synchronika.

#5: Post by **cafeIKE** » December 13th, 2021, 10:45 am

That's it, but you should buy it from Stefano @ Espresso Care, our Oregon espresso parts and service gold mine.

Anti-Vacuum Valve 2020 1/4BSP

If the location seat is machined smooth, get a half dozen copper crush washers for when you descale. I use the hole to charge and drain the descale solution.

#6: Post by **JohnB.** » December 13th, 2021, 11:45 am

Another option is the barbed style valve: https://www.espressocare.com/products/i ... ed-fitting This allows you to add a section of silicone hose connecting the valve with your drip tray.

#7: Post by **cafeIKE** » December 13th, 2021, 3:32 pm

The barbed unit is not useful on all machines. None of mine have had an inlet to the drip tray. Also will not fit above the boiler.

#8: Post by **PedrO** » December 13th, 2021, 3:47 pm

I bought a set of silicone o-rings at aliexpress about 3 years ago. ( 50 for 2 euro's) They last about a year in my machine that is on 24/7. That is just as long as a new valve lasts in my experience. The problem always being the o-ring that had hardened.

I soak the parts in vinegar and put some silicone grease on the new o-ring before putting it on.

I only take off the cap of the valve and in my experience there is no seal or teflon tape needed between the cap and the valve housing. There is none on a new valve. Just make it tight again.

#9: Post by **JohnB.** » December 13th, 2021, 4:44 pm

cafeIKE wrote:The barbed unit is not useful on all machines. None of mine have had an inlet to the drip tray. Also will not fit above the boiler.

It fit fine above the boiler on my Strega & my Bosco. On the Strega I tapped into the OPV drain line with a Y & added the Vac valve drain line. My Speedster had all valves plumbed out from the factory 12 years ago. Hard to believe companies still ship machines with the vacuum & over pressure valves able to spray water around the inside of the machine.