How do I tell the rating of the circuit in my kitchen - Page 2

#11: Post by **cannonfodder** » January 9th, 2007, 3:45 pm

To a more practical point. I just purchased an Elektra A3 which requires a 20 amp service. To check the breakers for the kitchen, I turned off the 20 amp breakers, plugged in a lamp (turned on) then powered up the circuit's one at a time until the light came on. Once I found that specific circuit, I turned it back off. Then moved the lamp from outlet to outlet seeing which ones were hot and which was dead. Now I know what outlets are serviced by that one breaker.

Thankfully, when the previous owners remodeled the kitchen, they installed three 20 amp breakers. So the microwave/convection oven is on one, two duplex outlets on another and two more duplex on the third. I drive the Elektra and my Cimbali Jr grinder on the same circuit, and nothing else is used on those two plugs. Why tempt the fire gods, lest they smite thee and 'French roast' thy house.

#12: Post by **bill** » January 9th, 2007, 8:38 pm

HB wrote:I strongly advise against exceeding the circuit's rated load, period, and not just on the grounds of personal safety. My home insurance provider once suggested a smart homeowner does not provide cause to delay or deny a claim if there were ever a fire in their home. It sounded like good advice to me.

This isn't meant to offend anyone, but with the exception of Dan's advice I strongly recommend that all the rest please confine their advice to coffee. Several of these posts are not only wrong but they could be the cause of someone burning down their home or worse.

January 9th, 2007, 9:01 pm

You definitely want to get involved in home roasting discussions where some people 'oft recommend using long light duty extension cords to add time to their fast roasts.

#14: Post by **bill** » January 9th, 2007, 9:07 pm

Mike,
Thanks for warning me. Advice like that may end getting a lot of things roasted besides coffee beans.

#15: Post by **annp** » January 20th, 2007, 8:34 pm

The person who built our house - who just so happens to live here as well - would like the following information regarding my plans make major structural changes for my new toy, errr, espresso machine.

Its a given that any of the machines I'm considering in my fit of upgradeitis are 20 amp - but lets just focus this on the Elektra A3.

So the heating element is 2000 watts and the machine is 120 volts, so when the heating element is on, it pulls like 16.67 amps.

Does the pump pull a lot of amperage as well?

I figure my Macap grinder is good for about 2 amps. Thats getting close enough to run another isolated circuit for just the machine if the pump has a significant draw as well. I figure the toaster and the grinder can share just fine.

Does the Elektra have a normal 3 prong plug, or something strange and appliance specific?

I really like the 7 day digital programmable timer I have Anita on. I've not seen anything in random googling thats 20A specific. Any ideas? No little plastic pins, please!

Thanks!

Ann

January 20th, 2007, 9:13 pm

The Elektra has three bare wires at the end of the power cord. Remember, this is a commercial, UL, NFS certified machine with a six liter boiler. It was designed to be put in place and never moved. In a shop, it would be wired into the junction box. You will need to put a 20 amp rated plug on the bare wires. But wait!, there's more, since it is manufactured in Europe, it uses European wiring. So no black, white, green wires, but I have been through that, and Here is the answer to your question.

January 21st, 2007, 11:23 am

annp wrote:I really like the 7 day digital programmable timer I have Anita on. I've not seen anything in random googling thats 20A specific. Any ideas? No little plastic pins, please!
Thanks!
Ann

I'd suggest looking into X10 control. Been using X10 for years automating control of all kinds of things not just espresso machine. Receivers come in various types including plug in modules, replacement receptacles including 20A 120v and even up to 30A 220v inlines for controlling large appliances like water heater. While I probably should be using a 20A receptacle receiver with my Bricoletta already had multiple 15A Appliance plug-in modules on hand so gave one a try. Been using it for over a year.

#18: Post by **annp** » January 21st, 2007, 4:57 pm

Compass Coffee wrote:I'd suggest looking into X10 control. Been using X10 for years automating control of all kinds of things not just espresso machine.

Thanks Mike - this is really cool, and you don't have to spend a fortune if you only want to control a few things.

If anyone else is tempted - check this control box out:

http://www.smarthome.com/1100x.html

This is real simple and will do our outside lighting as well as an espresso machine.

Ann

January 21st, 2007, 6:48 pm

You're welcome. Yes, have used X10s to automate my outdoor Christmas lights for years, stereo coming on after alarm, various lights stereo TV scenarios for on vaccation etc. The weakness of that controller is not being able to program individual days or even weekday versus weekend. (I have two of those timer controllers.) For total flexible control there's computer based control of X10, but of course costs a bit more to implement but not an arm and leg. Way cheaper than a decent grinder, even cheaper than a mediocre grinder like Solis Maestro! I"ve often thought about moving to the computer control software but never have, been getting by so long with those two controller, and now finances are not what they once were so will wait a bit longer.

#20: Post by **bill** » January 21st, 2007, 11:28 pm

Mike,
Thanks for bring the X10 to my attention. I've used similar, much more expensive, devices in industrial applications and always assumed home versions were fairly costly. Now I know better!
Bill