Coffeechap wrote:Probably, as that is the most common point of failure on this grinder

I have an 804, which per Prima Coffee (USA Ditting rep), uses the same switch as the 1203, but Prima Coffee has none in stock, plus their price is fairly high at US$50.

Do you think this switch, sold on Amazon, would work okay? https://www.amazon.com/DaierTek-Rocker- ... 07S914SFB/

It has four prongs all in same orientation as the Ditting switch's prongs. Per the Amazon sold one's outer dimensions, 30mm x 22m, it seems the same size, as I just measured the outside dimensions of mine.

You think that Amazon one would be okay as I would like a spare in case mine ever goes out. It is rated at 120volts, which is what is used in USA, and up to 30 amps, which is more than my circuit would hold or the machine pulls.

Thank you will test the switch tomorrow

From the last time I asked Nancy from Ditting (who I don't think is with the company anymore), she said they recommend lubricating the felt ring with mineral oil. It's not supposed to be totally saturated though. I think the more common problem is when it becomes black and hardened rather than soaked with oil. The mineral oil solution has been helpful with getting that burr carrier spinning again with various 804s I have refurbed.

Thank you. Do you mind sharing a picture showing me where this felt ring is? Appreciate it as I am still learning and really need to get this grinder up and running again

I haven't worked on a 1203 in awhile so I'm not sure if the process is identical to the 804 but I think it's similar. First unplug the grinder, remove the hopper, then remove the 3 or 4 screws holding the upper stationary burr carrier and lift off the carrier. You should see the lower rotating burr carrier and the whole grind chamber. The felt ring is on the outside of the rotating burr carrier. You would mainly want to ensure that the rotating burr carrier can spin without too much force. In my experience, the usually don't spin "freely", but as long as you don't notice too much resistance, that probably isn't the problem. Like I mentioned before, you could try lubricating that felt ring with a couple drops of mineral oil if you do notice alot of resistance.

If all checks out, you could probably test the switch with a multimeter to see if it's working or not. Otherwise, a dead capacitor could stop the grinder from starting at all.

here you can see the process of opening up the burr chamber

Ok now I know what you are talking about. The rotating carrier does rotate if i push it but there seems to be some kind of minimal resistance to it. Will check it out tomorrow. Will also be checking the switch and might as well the capacitors
Tx again

okhartabil wrote:Hello everyone. This is my very FIRST post.

I recently (well few months ago) bought a used ditting KR1203 for the sole purpose of grinding turkish coffee for my home based business.
Today I turned it on without beans to clean any remaining grounds form my last run. The grinder worked fine.

Did you fix it? If so, what was the problem?

If you have not fixed it yet, perhaps it is the capacitor. It is at bottom I think. Is it bloated or anything? I was watching how to take off the bottom, finding a video on changing the capacitor on a 804m and thought the capacitor could be a source for the problem.

No unfortunately not yet. I did remove the bottom cover and had a look. The capacitors looked fine I guess. Not bloated or anything. Will work on it with a friend hopefully this week. Will keep you posted

UPDATE:
Finally managed to investigate further. Found 2 things

1. Lots of grinds on the switch which especially at the pigtail ends which was probably not allowing for proper contact. Cleaned it out.

2. One of the lines to the switch was dented. Repaired it

Now working well BUT the switch light still doesn't coke on but the grinder works. So far so good
Tx everyone for your contribution and support