Profitec Pro 800 Needs Some Diagnosis and Repairs - Page 3
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Two on boiler side. Both check out with continuity tests. Anything else one should check for?Mad Scientist wrote:Do you have one or two contact thermostats mounted on the boiler side plate? Have you checked them?
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- Team HB
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The Green Lamp is directly parallel to the Gicar's power connections, so if the green lamp is illuminated and nothing is obviously burnt, you can assume that the gicar has power.
When the Gicar has power, either the orange lamp or the pump should come on when the machine senses water in the reservoir, or the machine is switched to "plumbed". The orange lamp and the power for the PID controller are directly parallel to each other, they will come on and off together. If switching the plumbed switch to plumbed doesn't make either the pump or the orange light illuminate when the Gicar is powered, then jumping to the conclusion that the Gicar has a fault is reasonable.
IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING, you could check for power to the pump with the machine on, switched to plumbed... Just to rule out that the Gicar is fine but the pump is dead. If you're not sure what you're doing, do not ever work on or in a live machine.
When the Gicar has power, either the orange lamp or the pump should come on when the machine senses water in the reservoir, or the machine is switched to "plumbed". The orange lamp and the power for the PID controller are directly parallel to each other, they will come on and off together. If switching the plumbed switch to plumbed doesn't make either the pump or the orange light illuminate when the Gicar is powered, then jumping to the conclusion that the Gicar has a fault is reasonable.
IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING, you could check for power to the pump with the machine on, switched to plumbed... Just to rule out that the Gicar is fine but the pump is dead. If you're not sure what you're doing, do not ever work on or in a live machine.
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As a troubleshooting step I did recently switch the machine to plumbed while powered off, then powered on the machine, and the symptoms remained constant. Just to confirm, it would not also be required to manually turn the valve toward the back as well, would it?
I am comfortable using a multimeter on live electronics, so we'll see if power is coming to the pump.
Confirm, please, machine switched to "plumbed," Power on, test.
Silly question, but when the machine is switched to "plumbed," why is there still power going to the rotary pump?
I am comfortable using a multimeter on live electronics, so we'll see if power is coming to the pump.
Confirm, please, machine switched to "plumbed," Power on, test.
Silly question, but when the machine is switched to "plumbed," why is there still power going to the rotary pump?
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There's a switch behind the driptray on the left that disables the pump and reservoir water level sensor.Pushjerk wrote:Silly question, but when the machine is switched to "plumbed," why is there still power going to the rotary pump?
Dan Kehn
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Perhaps it isn't a silly question. I believed that the machine would run the pump during "boiler fill" but I may be incorrect. I don't have a P800 to test on, sorry if I was misleading.Pushjerk wrote: Silly question, but when the machine is switched to "plumbed," why is there still power going to the rotary pump?
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I can confirm that the pump is disabled by that switch. Only the fill solenoid opens with a distinct click.
Dan Kehn
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JRising wrote:Perhaps it isn't a silly question. I believed that the machine would run the pump during "boiler fill" but I may be incorrect. I don't have a P800 to test on, sorry if I was misleading.
Please pardon me if we are gong round In circles.
But if the switch is set to "plumb," "boiler fill" would occur via plumbed pressure, and not the vibratory pump, correct? Thus power may very well not be sent to the pump when the machine is set to "plumb," but only when the machine is set to "Reservoir". Just thinking out loud here.
Nonetheless, I will check for power to the pump with both settings.
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Power from Gicar CB to pump appears to be a negative.JRising wrote:The Green Lamp is directly parallel to the Gicar's power connections, so if the green lamp is illuminated and nothing is obviously burnt, you can assume that the gicar has power.
When the Gicar has power, either the orange lamp or the pump should come on when the machine senses water in the reservoir, or the machine is switched to "plumbed". The orange lamp and the power for the PID controller are directly parallel to each other, they will come on and off together. If switching the plumbed switch to plumbed doesn't make either the pump or the orange light illuminate when the Gicar is powered, then jumping to the conclusion that the Gicar has a fault is reasonable.
IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING, you could check for power to the pump with the machine on, switched to plumbed... Just to rule out that the Gicar is fine but the pump is dead. If you're not sure what you're doing, do not ever work on or in a live machine.
Procedure:
- Black power wire From board to pump disconnected.
- Multimeter lead 1 connected to black wire from board, lead 2 connected to pump terminal. Multimeter set to AC voltage.
- Machine set to "Plumb."
- Plug in. Power on. Needle remains still.
The same was tried with machine set to "reservoir."
Is there any chance that any level of Voltage can only be read when pump is actuated?
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- Team HB
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Sure sounds like the Gicar got soaked and died. Profitec part number for the 115V Pro800 one is US1051 if that helps.Pushjerk wrote:Power from Gicar CB to pump appears to be a negative.
Is there any chance that any level of Voltage can only be read when pump is actuated?
- Mad Scientist
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It would be worth emailing James "Pat" Boyt at jpboyt@boytenterprises to see if you works on gicars. He fixed my trigger box on my San Marco.
“You haven't lived until you've lived with a cat.” Doris Day
Londinium 1 (2014)
Londinium 1 (2014)