Weber EG-1: Is this burr chirp? - Page 2
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Just read from here /grinders/e ... ml#p781042. Nothng to worry about.
You still need to season the burrs for around 20-30kg to get it really right. That's the perceived downside of using unimodal burrs for espresso as you need to go really fine, close to touching point.
You still need to season the burrs for around 20-30kg to get it really right. That's the perceived downside of using unimodal burrs for espresso as you need to go really fine, close to touching point.
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This is incredibly helpful and definitely cleared up some misunderstandings I had!Rytopa wrote:It's normal to grind at burr chirp for the eg-1 with brew burrs for espresso .its part of their "design", there is a slack of around 200um whereby you can move further in after burr rub.
Very bad design if you ask me, however the manufacturer claims it's normal.
https://coffeeadastra.com/2021/04/14/pu ... sso-shots/ it's mentioned here , he have to grind at burr rub and beyond to get espresso shots to pull properly.
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So I guess I'd be okay with attempting to go finer even though I'll be getting these sounds? And if the motor decides to stop spinning or what is perceived normally as a bean getting stuck, that just means it's not quite seasoned enough (while attempting to not go past 0)?erik82 wrote:Just read from here /grinders/e ... ml#p781042. Nothng to worry about.
You still need to season the burrs for around 20-30kg to get it really right. That's the perceived downside of using unimodal burrs for espresso as you need to go really fine, close to touching point.
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Just a question. Why not use the grinder as supplied for awhile , seasoning the burrs etc before making any changes? I for one would never take the grinder apart and make changes without first knowing everything about it. But, that is just me.
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Agree with chipman. It really sounds like you don't really know what you're doing. 0 tells you nothing so I don't understand what that reference was about as that's beginner knowledge. First get to know the grinder and get the knowledge needed before changing things or else you're prone to make very costly mistakes.
You should test grinding fine enough for espresso and see how it works while knowing, by testing by hand, you're not locking up the burrs thus damaging the motor. Just do the test I showed in the video but without the motor running but with the front cover off so you can rotate by hand. Then you should be able to check everything in a controlled manner.
Seasoning takes 20kg and will shift the grind settings even more towards the fine end which is common behaviour for all grinders. I don't understand the what you mean by a bean getting stuck and motor stops running when seasoning. Those things aren't related.
Those SSP burrs are finicky and require a different technique. You should really know well what you're doing with that as range is very limited and you can make mistakes easily compared to more normal burrs. You should be very cautious at this point if you don't have a lot of knowledge about grinders/grinding/burr properties.
You should test grinding fine enough for espresso and see how it works while knowing, by testing by hand, you're not locking up the burrs thus damaging the motor. Just do the test I showed in the video but without the motor running but with the front cover off so you can rotate by hand. Then you should be able to check everything in a controlled manner.
Seasoning takes 20kg and will shift the grind settings even more towards the fine end which is common behaviour for all grinders. I don't understand the what you mean by a bean getting stuck and motor stops running when seasoning. Those things aren't related.
Those SSP burrs are finicky and require a different technique. You should really know well what you're doing with that as range is very limited and you can make mistakes easily compared to more normal burrs. You should be very cautious at this point if you don't have a lot of knowledge about grinders/grinding/burr properties.