I have been looking for an Olympia Express Club for a while and haven't seen one, so I hunted down Migg in Switzerland via Google after seeing him referenced by others on this board. My objective for a machine was that it worked, but had good bones for an eventual restore. I tried to do this when I acquired my Cremina, but that project was blown up when the thing showed up in "never been used" condition: The Olympia Cremina Rebuild That Wasn't

Eventually I found Migg at https://olympia-kaffeemachinen.ch/ Through the wonders of Google Translate, (I speak English and Migg speaks German), I found he had several Clubs in stock, and which one would I like? I did some homework on running 220V appliances in the US and pulled the trigger last month. Shipping via Swiss Economy Post was around $140 to send the machine to Idaho.

Yesterday it arrived - it was partially restored by the previous owner so all of the gnarly issues are behind me. This is a 1969 machine.











I spent yesterday cleaning it - I noticed the same "black soot" in the boiler filler pipe Leveraddict found on his epic post, (which inspired me to pursue this machine). Olympia Club Restoration DIY Rebuild

I was very interested to find out what the "black soot" is, since both machines had it. Searching on this site found a post from Dr Pavlis, who explained this is Cu0 (Copper Oxide). The question of how to get rid of it led me to this answer: it's a good thing, so I left it alone. My thinking is it is a protective layer to the copper boiler, is no risk from health perspective, and using acids to get rid of it does present a health risk downside.

I solved the electrical problem with this LiteFuze transformer from Amazon.
It cost me less than an electrician, and has more than enough capacity to sustain 1300 watt output. When I turned everything on, the Club and Transformer ran very quietly and the boiler took a really long time to heat up. I wondered if I had purchased the correct transformer?

In my excitement to turn on the Club, I didn't notice this massive notice in the back and had started it in the default 220V position. Once I flipped the transformer to the correct setting I had a beast on my hands. Wow! It's hard to believe 300 Watts more than the Cremina makes this much of a difference - it seems like double the power.

My first restoration project will be to replace the wiring with high temp MIL-Spec aircraft wire. This stuff is nickel plated copper and higher spec than temperature tolerant silicone wire I've seen used.

Eventually, I plan on converting this machine to 110V. I would never consider doing a 220V to 110V conversion on a modern machine, but these babies are little analog wonders. Migg tells me its on/off switch is exactly the same part for both 110V and 220V systems, and he installed a brand new switch. I saw that this machine didn't have the original PStat and saw this as a simplifying component to resolve in the conversion process. I'll just read the Mater switch number and get a 110V. I think Orphan Espresso used to sell heating elements for the Club, but they're not listed any longer. I have a few 110V 1300W elements identified, and I believe all USA owners will eventually need a new element.

Finally, while I do highly technical work, this journey was an unbelievably enjoyable undertaking. Migg was absolutely a pleasure to work with. I sat in Idaho with my computer, working with a guy 5,000 miles away, speaking completely in different languages that were translated by Google and made a deal I could not be happier with. When it arrived, everything worked: he is the most qualified guy on the planet to work on one of this babies. He has a lot of parts on hand, so I'm sure I'll be buying something else from him in the future.

Great score. Congratulations !!
Are these spring loaded or the same group as the Cremina ?

Spring lever, 49mm group.

Congratulations, very nice machine!

If you take it out at some point could you please take a picture of the shower screen and even better, some measurements of it.

I am traveling today, but will do. The screen looks just like the one found on a Cremina, and I'm pretty sure it's the same.

Yes, the shower screen is identical to the ones on all '67' model Creminas.

That is a gorgeous machine. I've always liked the look of the straight-on steam and water wands of the early Clubs and Creminas before they went to the angled version in 72 or 73.

Great machine. The wand looks a bit short, how does it steam?
Curious to see what 110V heating element you find, I am looking for the same style for my Conti but have not find 110V one.

Thanks. It steams with gusto -at full open you need to be ready and have the wand immersed properly to avoid a mess.

I am looking at http://www.cafeparts.com for the conversion element. They have detailed photos with dimensions. I will start on this next week.

Welcome aboard!
Ever since I got mine, ao fond it much easier to get out of bed in the morning! Fantastic machines!
Your club looks gorgeous! Migg is a great fellow no doubt!

Even though I was fortunate enough to have, in my kitchen, ap double 125v plug paired with a 250v breaker in my electrical box... I'm quite interested in your 110v heating element hunt... Please let us know the results.

Cheers!

Isn't the Club boiler made out of brass? I was under the impression... Considering electroless nickel plating on mine.

I switched my PF and lever handles with the new longer handles from Cerini. Same design as the old original ones (doubt your PF handle is original...?) but at least 50% longer. Makes more sense, especially when pulling the lever.

Anyone thought about or actually added a vacuum breaker? I was thinking of adding a MFF 1/4" T connection where the safety valve is and put both valves on each side of the T, horizontally...