I did a lot of research for entry-level-esk grinder for espresso, and everyone seemed very happy with the Vario. I've had it for about a year, but everytime I speak to anyone who owns an espresso shop and ask for advice about my shots, they always turn their nose up at the Vario.

Upon further inspection of my grinds there appears to be a lot of fine dust that gets mixed in. One shop recommended I buy a $50 set of sifters, but that just seems annoying.

What's the next level of grinder I should look up to? I have a Silvia which I know is rather particular with grind. Probably going to have to buy a new machine too .. oy.

I researched grinders for about a year and decided there are 2 options, Sette 270 or Monolith Titan. $340.00 vs $2,000.00.
Not wanting to get a divorce I went with the Sette, so far so good. You can buy a new 270 every year for 6 years for the cost of the Monolith. I would upgrade the grinder first.

ben8jam wrote:...everytime I speak to anyone who owns an espresso shop and ask for advice about my shots, they always turn their nose up at the Vario

Is this after tasting your shots? Or, simply based on their personal knowledge/experiences with Varios?

Regardless, my encouragement would be that it doesn't matter unless you're turning your nose up at the shot quality you're getting. Are you? Based on your question, it would seem like you must be unhappy with the results you're getting, but if that's the case are you sure it's your grind? What are you unhappy with in the cup?

One thing I feel never gets talked about enough is that most of us have a fair selection of coffees we simply don't like. Here's what I mean: for the budding home barista who is getting into the world of specialty coffee at home, they spend plenty of money on a grinder and gooseneck kettle and a pourover cone...then they brew some 'good' coffee (i.e. coffee the community online or otherwise has told them is great coffee). They don't like it. Something seems off and no matter how they brew it (with different ratios, temperatures, grind sizes, etc), they just think it tastes weird. But, all they have is a v60. So, they buy a Chemex. Then a Bonmac. Then a Kalita. Etc...they might eventually say they 'got it dialed' and it tastes good. But, I personally happen to think this is a great example of someone who just happened to not like the type of coffee they bought. Maybe they bought an Ethiopian coffee (because they've heard Ethiopian coffees are 'the best'...), but in truth they actually don't like citrusy, acidic, floral, fruity coffees...

My whole point is, it's easy to think our equipment is what is ruining flavor. But, the Vario is a good grinder. Are there better ones out there? For sure. But, maybe you're associating the negative results you're getting with equipment vs coffee (or the water you're using)?

ben8jam wrote:Upon further inspection of my grinds there appears to be a lot of fine dust that gets mixed in.

Are you using this for both filter and espresso? If you're unhappy with espresso results, but are using the grinder for double duty, I'd look to that as a potential culprit. (folks have had some trouble switching back and forth...there are some tips and tricks to shortening dial in times with it though)

...

Personally, I've been up in the air with the Vario. Got one three months ago and it's been my first dedicated espresso grinder. I was really hoping it would step up my espresso quality by virtue of it being more adjustable and only for espresso. But, it was nothing magical. Here's the thing: based on my example above, I should have known better. Spending more money guarantees nothing. I've thought about selling and trying something different, but I've decided to hang in there to really learn what it's going to take to take my flavor experience a step forward.

Here's what I've learned by taking things slow and not rushing to try another fancy piece of equipment:

1. I have a much more particular set of preferences for coffees used for espresso vs filter. i.e. Although I love a wide range of flavors for filter, I really only want sweet, round, chocolate and caramelly coffees that aren't harsh in their bitterness but are tamed in their acidity when being consumed as espresso. For instance, most coffees specialty/3rd wave shops use for espresso are much too acidic and light for my liking (as espresso) no matter what ratio I pull at.

2. The Vario is more than adequate in its consistency (used in my house only for espresso) to dial in coffees. Consequently, if I don't like the coffee I make using the vario - simply a tool, and decently reliable one, for extraction - it's probably because I don't like the coffee!

3. I just did an axial alignment last weekend (with ceramic vario burrs installed). Long story short: it was quite un-aligned beforehand. After aligning, my shot specs with the same coffee went from 17.5 in / 34 out / 29 secs at *1H* on the grinder, to 15.6 in / 31 out / 42 secs at *2Q* on the grinder That is a huge difference! The reason my dose is lower is because even though I coarsened it from 1H pre-alignment to 2Q post, at a 17.5g dose my machine would not dispense a drop!

Regarding point 3, I'm really glad I did the alignment for a few reasons. First, it highlights the value/difference a good alignment makes (this is true even of expensive Mahlkoenigs). Second, it means my extractions should be much more even (since pre-alignment grinds would have been less even due to the axial misalignment). Third, it made me realize what the Vario is capable of (if calibrated and aligned well).

A luthier I once knew who setup my guitar for me (and made a $200 guitar play like a $1000 one) told me guys would come in to his shop and get really upset when he told them their brand new $800 guitar needed work to play well and to stay in tune with itself. He was never pushy - but his reasoning simply was that those guitars had come off a factory line and naturally needed some specific tweaks for each guitar to reach its full potential and play well. His quality of work spoke for itself. My point, however, is that although some grinders like the monolith may already be setup from the get go the way a $xxxx custom built guitar is ready to go, most other grinders that aren't assembled with that level of scrutiny probably need to be setup (i.e. aligned axially and radially) to reach their full potential (similar to a guitar coming of a factory line).

This post is long. Happy to share links though if you're interested in trying to align yours. Cheers and good luck!

Yes, very interested in learning how to align my Vario-W.

I would also be interested in learning more regarding alignment procedures

I'm beating myself up now - should have taken photos during the process. Oh well, I may try and do it again soon just for the sake of documenting the process and posting it separately for other Vario owners. For now, I'll include two guides (one video, one pdf) which are both helpful depending how one prefers to learn/process.

The biggest challenge (read: most intimidating part) was figuring out how to apply the concepts to the Vario. The reality is, it's quite easy, I just held out because the photos and videos were of other grinder assemblies and I needed to just take a sec to think about which parts would need attention in the Vario. So, I'll put the links below and some comments/notes of mine which will hopefully help simplify things if you're feeling lost after watching/reading the links.

EK43 Alignment - Matt Perger

Mythos Alignment - Mat North

• The video helpfully explains differences in radial and axial alignment (0:10), but only demonstrates axial. The pdf demonstrates axial and radial. Currently I've only done axial alignment, since testing radial may be a bit more difficult with the Vario.
• The EK43 video shows both burrs with the marker test. I only tested one burr (the stationary/upper burr in Vario) more similar to the Mythos guide.
• To do the Vario alignment, you'll need to removing both the upper burr carrier (to assess alignment using the marker test), and then subsequently, unscrewing the upper burr from its carrier in order to put paper shims underneath it after assessing alignment.
• I would recommend initially removing the bottom burr too, just to do a thorough clean of everything before beginning. Once you have cleaned the grinder, you can put the bottom burr back in and forget about it (i.e. after cleaning, we'll only be working with the upper burr and carrier).
• After cleaning, but before doing the first marker test, note (or mark with marker or some masking tape or something else) two things: (1) how the upper burr is oriented in the carrier (you want to screw with the same screws, through the same holes in the burr, into the same holes in the carrier *every time* you disassemble/reassemble) and (2) how the burr carrier is oriented when fastened into the grinder housing (you want that carrier to tighten down the same way every time - i.e. if you don't keep this consistent, you're naturally changing the way the upper/stationary burr is oriented above the lower/moving burr...and that would throw the entire alignment off).
• Don't forget to use a dry erase marker, NOT a sharpie
• To clarify: although in the video, the 'bottom' burr is initially marked, we will mark the upper burr in the Vario (we're targeting the stationary burr).
• The burr touch with the Vario is done at ~2Q or until you hear a noise change when moving the macro arm from 10 up to 3, 2, or maybe even 1 (if it's not clear, your grinder should have zero coffee in it this whole time).
• (You can skip putting the hopper back on each time to run the grinder if you click the micro switch above the fastened burr carrier - just hold it down while running the grinder in manual...I am not responsible if you turn your finger into fine espresso powder)
• If you've gotten as far as doing the initial marker test, well done! It'll get easier from here.
• After making the burrs touch, remove the (hopper and) burr carrier and inspect how much of the marker has worn off.
• Anywhere the marker has not worn off, you need to shim. I used small little printer paper rectangles, you could use kitchen foil or anything else flat and that won't compress over time. As Matt explains, you just need a small shim in the middle of the perimeter where the marker was still showing.
• Take it slow! Put one or maybe two shims in. Reassemble with the exact same orientation of the burr into the carrier, and the carrier into the grinder. Test again. Check the marker again. Do this until all of the marker is evenly being worn off...It took me four times/shims with mine.
• Once the wear is even, congrats!
• Don't forget to clean up the remaining dry erase with a tissue or q-tip before final reassembly and grinding coffee.

Hopefully even though that's not as clear as a separate video/pdf guide for the Vario, that'll be a good start. Like I said, my shot times went through the roof after this. This makes more sense since if burrs are beginning to touch (when unloaded with no coffee), that *should* be a very fine setting even when grinding with a loaded hopper. Previously, it took ratcheting the grinder down to 1H to get usable fineness/resistance/times (which just goes to show how poorly aligned it was). Now, I'd choke my machine probably even at a 13g dose if I took it down to 1H...haha.

Can Vario owners extract with decent times with the grinder out of the box? Yes, without a doubt. I'm not looking to rip on Baratza, they've been really good to me as a customer and I enjoy their products. But, remember the example of the luthier. For ~$350, it's a bit much to expect perfect axial alignment in this grinder out of the box. But for the courageous tinkerer at home who can muscle through the guides above, I think the payoff will be there in a big way! (My post-alignment shots, even before dialed to taste, were already noticeably less harsh and more balanced - evidence to me of a more even particle distribution).

Cheers and good luck!

Wow had no idea about the alignment issue. Not sure though I can do all that.

This Vario is exclusive for espresso shots.

Sounds like I just need to stick with it. Oh well.