Arrarex Caravel - heating elements prevent boiler to fit in - Page 3
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Because the ceramic block touches the casing, that indicates that the whole thermal element frame is tilted towards in one direction on my device. So I removed the complete V-shape frame to fix this issue and level the frame. After having removed it, I noticed that indeed the frame is fixed very tilted and fixed *below* the spring, instead of layering ontop of the spring as is the case with the two other springs on the front:
I suspect that this was incorrectly assembled by someone, but I'm unsure as to where exactly the frame needs to be fixed. I strongly suspect that it should be above the spring instead of below it.. but should there not be a shrim below it? But I don't know how it's supposed to be in original Caravels. Here is where that screw is mounted on the casing:
Thanks again for any insights
I suspect that this was incorrectly assembled by someone, but I'm unsure as to where exactly the frame needs to be fixed. I strongly suspect that it should be above the spring instead of below it.. but should there not be a shrim below it? But I don't know how it's supposed to be in original Caravels. Here is where that screw is mounted on the casing:
Thanks again for any insights
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- Posts: 26
- Joined: 7 years ago
Thanks for this information. With "longer edge of the V-Shape frame", do you mean the corner? I.e. how it is in my version (see posting I did today), so that that corner is below instead of above the spring?pocketmon wrote:It's interesting.
I got my Caravel v1.0 or 1.1 with a broken element and got an after market one.
My situation seems opposite to yours.
My original broken element won't touch the V-shape frame and the kettle fits perfectly.
I have to put V-shape "upside-down" to support the after-market element, or the kettle won't be locked. By putting the longer edge of V-Shape frame down, the kettle is not firm enough.
So your after-market heating element is too small, so that you then have to put the corner of the V-shape towards the user, which lifts the V-shape and heating element towards the kettle? Interesting that there is so much variety among the after-market heating elements.
- cuppajoe
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Looking at the upper photo, it appears that it was disassembled and put back together improperly.
Here's a link to a rebuild thread I posted showing how the rear mount should look. - VAM Caravel v1 microswitch The rear mounting tab on the drip tray(frame) should engage between the brass 'washer' and the spring. Never fooled with the adjustment nut, so not sure what spec should be.
Looking at your photo I see the brass piece is on one of the front mounting screws. There should be only a screw, spring, and adjuster ball on the front points, with the adjuster balls on the underside of the main casting. Also be sure that the springs are in correct position. If I remember, the two front ones differ from the rear. Have fiddled with the adjusters on a couple machines and found they did little, so just screwed them on all the way. Still plenty of play with kettle installed. The V stand off is a necessity, and aftermarket elements will dictate how it's oriented.
Several aftermarket suppliers have come and gone, so there are numerous variations out there. I think the main idea is to have the upper side of the element even with the top of the tray so both sit flush on the bottom of the kettle. The element should have a good mechanical contact with the kettle. A good indicator is bubbles forming in the shape of the element as the water heats.
Here's a link to a rebuild thread I posted showing how the rear mount should look. - VAM Caravel v1 microswitch The rear mounting tab on the drip tray(frame) should engage between the brass 'washer' and the spring. Never fooled with the adjustment nut, so not sure what spec should be.
Looking at your photo I see the brass piece is on one of the front mounting screws. There should be only a screw, spring, and adjuster ball on the front points, with the adjuster balls on the underside of the main casting. Also be sure that the springs are in correct position. If I remember, the two front ones differ from the rear. Have fiddled with the adjusters on a couple machines and found they did little, so just screwed them on all the way. Still plenty of play with kettle installed. The V stand off is a necessity, and aftermarket elements will dictate how it's oriented.
Several aftermarket suppliers have come and gone, so there are numerous variations out there. I think the main idea is to have the upper side of the element even with the top of the tray so both sit flush on the bottom of the kettle. The element should have a good mechanical contact with the kettle. A good indicator is bubbles forming in the shape of the element as the water heats.
David - LMWDP 448
My coffee wasn't strong enough to defend itself - Tom Waits
My coffee wasn't strong enough to defend itself - Tom Waits
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This is what I place it. If I place it upside-down of this photo, the heating element will be too low and the kettle won't be locked.litb wrote:Thanks for this information. With "longer edge of the V-Shape frame", do you mean the corner? I.e. how it is in my version (see posting I did today), so that that corner is below instead of above the spring?
So your after-market heating element is too small, so that you then have to put the corner of the V-shape towards the user, which lifts the V-shape and heating element towards the kettle? Interesting that there is so much variety among the after-market heating elements.
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Certainly the tray is on the wrong side of the spring.
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Ahh, now I understand what you are saying. This is interesting indeed. I want to build such a V-support bar aswell. Do you happen to know the height of this bar, and perhaps the angle and length of the sides? Then I will go to my local store and buy some stainless steel bar and bend/cut it so that it fits. Thanks!pocketmon wrote:This is what I place it. If I place it upside-down of this photo, the heating element will be too low and the kettle won't be locked.
<image>
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Please check the measurement here:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/700 ... arex_v.zip
BTW, the display of my ruler is broken, so there's tape on it.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/700 ... arex_v.zip
BTW, the display of my ruler is broken, so there's tape on it.