Solder or other option for 500 degree food safe?

Discuss roast levels and profiles for espresso, equipment for roasting coffee.
day
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#1: Post by day »

Hi, so, I perhaps should post this in the Huky forum. I have decided that the t pipe bean trap is unacceptable. It is fairly clear that towards the end of dry some lighter beans are pulled up into the t pipe, causing me some 10g or more of beans at times to be lost. that is ruining my ability to weight my output and is irritating. I think the best solution is to install a steel mesh or sieve at the opening of t pipe so that air can still flow but beans cant get inside it. I am considering taking it to a local shop and see if they can solder on a such a mesh for me, or find an option to do it myself, and of course wanted to get the opinion of people around here.
Yes, i you per this on an iPhone

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Stereo Heathen
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#2: Post by Stereo Heathen »

JB Weld is what I've seen recommended most often around here, and what I used on the inside of my Hottop.

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FotonDrv
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#3: Post by FotonDrv replying to Stereo Heathen »

I have used JB Weld in some pretty hot situations, but none for food safe considerations. Our local powder coater says he can powder the stuff too!! Amazing, and to top it off it is incredibly strong.
That Light at the End of the Tunnel is actually a train

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hankua
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#4: Post by hankua »

I think you should be able to work out a solution with some heavy stainless screen and a pair of pliers.
Next; someone could contact the builder and see if he would fabricate a removable screen tack welded to a ring.

edtbjon
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#5: Post by edtbjon »

Someone at the Huky forum asked this question some time ago. I do understand your question and the reasons etc. but the problem with a sieve or any kind of object in the exhaust passage is that it will cause the airflow to stop altogether. Why? Chaff! All the chaff will get stuck in whatever you put in the exhaust pipe instead of getting collected on top of the sieve at the exhaust fan (if you're using the "standard" setup). That will take out the airflow in the roaster altogether, which isn't good for the roast at all.
You don't tell if and how you control the exhaust fan speed, but the key to not losing 10g per roast (which is a lot!!) is to find out the lowest air settings with which you will get thorugh the roast. I personally (with a Huky T and solid drum etc) found a "Zero" setting on my Variac (type) voltage controller at around 35% (about 40V in the US, double that for Europe etc.). That setting is used up until DE (150C/300F). In the midphase of the roast I usually set the fan to about 50% and I rise it to 65-70% when entering first crack. With that fan setting pattern, I normally loose less than 10 beans, sometimes less, sometimes more.
You can find out how to zero in the fan speed controller by searching for cig.lighter or similar in both this forum or the HukyForum. (I learnt about it here before reading about it in the Scott Rao book on Roasting.)

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AssafL
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#6: Post by AssafL »

At roasting temps some solders soften or melt.

So instead of soldering I assume you mean braze or weld.
Scraping away (slowly) at the tyranny of biases and dogma.

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FotonDrv
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#7: Post by FotonDrv replying to AssafL »

+1
That Light at the End of the Tunnel is actually a train

danaleighton
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#8: Post by danaleighton »

FotonDrv wrote:I have used JB Weld in some pretty hot situations, but none for food safe considerations. Our local powder coater says he can powder the stuff too!! Amazing, and to top it off it is incredibly strong.
JB Weld is the good stuff. I verified food safety with the manufacturer. I use it in my roaster at 600°+ no problem.
Dana Leighton
LMWDP #269