Profitec T64 Grinder - Any other owners out there? - Page 4

Grinders are one of the keys to exceptional espresso. Discuss them here.
fdpiton (original poster)
Posts: 13
Joined: 9 years ago

#31: Post by fdpiton (original poster) »

Kellyk wrote:Once in a while, usually if there is a bean change, I'll clean '64 out. One way to do it (with caution) is to take off the hopper then blow down the 'inlet'. Not while it's running. A lot of grounds will come out. Or use a vacuum on the outlet...

What do you use to pressure air through the inlet ?

Kellyk
Posts: 70
Joined: 8 years ago

#32: Post by Kellyk »

fdpiton wrote:What do you use to pressure air through the inlet ?
A roll of paper for the seal but lungs for pressure!

mrticklish
Posts: 11
Joined: 7 years ago

#33: Post by mrticklish »

mrticklish wrote:Has anyone tried opening the grinder to clean it? I wanted to clean it as I bought a store demo model for a nice discount and there was some stale grinds inside. Here's what I did:
1. Unplug grinder
2. Remove hopper and remove 3 collar screws and hopper screw
3. Remove black collar
4. Unscrew top burr assembly
5. Scrub top and bottom burr assembly with nylon brush and vacuum inside to remove stale grinds
6. Once satisfied with cleanup operation re thread upper burr assembly until fully tightened and burrs touch (not sure if I need to rethread at a certain position or not or if that does not matter)
7. Rethread until burrs are together and reinsert collar at fine position and screw it in
8. Back off burrs by moving to coarse grind
9. Plug in and run motor and move to fine setting until burrs start chirping (this is your 0 position which for me is on the 2 setting)

Does this sound correct? Next time I open I would like to do it with pictures but let me know if my process sounds correct. I am 3 months into the espresso world so this is all new to me.

Thanks
I am noticing now that I have gone through this process to remove the upper burr for cleaning the grinder that I have to go a few rotations coarser to dial in my beans. Likely the collar is not set exactly as it was before but something to note.

mrticklish
Posts: 11
Joined: 7 years ago

#34: Post by mrticklish »

This may help for those who want to clean - the Macap M4 design is the same as the Profitec T64.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rogjEKdNhwY

mrticklish
Posts: 11
Joined: 7 years ago

#35: Post by mrticklish »

Got a stand so I can do weight based grinding with the acaia scale. I find the time based grinding hit or miss because of changing beans and grind settings often.

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mania
Posts: 199
Joined: 8 years ago

#36: Post by mania »

mrticklish wrote:Got a stand so I can do weight based grinding with the acaia scale. I find the time based grinding hit or miss because of changing beans and grind settings often.<image>

I have often wondered why more folks with electric grinders don't just do this rather than worry about time/weight based software within a grinder

3cordcreations
Posts: 348
Joined: 7 years ago

#37: Post by 3cordcreations »

mania wrote:I have often wondered why more folks with electric grinders don't just do this rather than worry about time/weight based software within a grinder
Time based can get you real close and sometimes people shoot for the high end, then weigh, and take off excess to get to weight. It's less waste than guessing, unless you have a set-up like the decent esp pieces above. Some of the weight based grinders are not that accurate either, from reading reviews...
A three cord strand is not easily broken...

3cordcreations
Posts: 348
Joined: 7 years ago

#38: Post by 3cordcreations »

mrticklish wrote:Got a stand so I can do weight based grinding with the acaia scale. I find the time based grinding hit or miss because of changing beans and grind settings often.
Nice set-up! I like the paper cut-out addition :D

It would be neat to see a video of this set-up in action. Any update on how you are liking both the Pro 300 and the grinder?
A three cord strand is not easily broken...

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