Agreed with Jake, would also recommend dropping the distributor tool from your puck prep for now

I would agree

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It's definitely an "electrical component" problem, not valves or anything. If you're comfortable running the machine with its panels off, do so. Let it heat up with its body panels off and watch the LEDs on the SSRs. You'll see the Brew SSR on solid for quite a whike at first, until the brew boiler gets up

+1

Wow. In 2021 listprice was: . Brewing 98mm, 550$ . Change geometry to Pre15 98mm, 250$ Coating +50$ Shipping back to my county included. Discount may is possible. No matter. Quality is absolutely perfect. And burrs in my case will last for lifetime. Every cup is tasty. Sweet. Balanced. Clean. With an endless aftertaste. Beside:

Great to hear that. Thanks

I would find that extremely annoying. It is starting to sound worse for line-ups than when Jollibee and Uncle Tetsu's first opened in Toronto. (Jollibee is a fast-food chain serving Filipino fried chicken. Uncle Tetsu is a chain for Japanese cheesecake. Ugh. Now I want some Japanese cheesecake )

If I was designing a induction based machine, I'd figure out the shortest length of and smallest diameter tubing that I can heat to boiling at the highest flow needed. That will give the fastest response time and least energy usage. There should be no reason for thermal mass in an induction heated system except maybe to even out the

I just removed the new SMA vacuum breaker valve from my GS3 because it failed after one year. La Marzocco and Voltage do not have rebuild kits available and no suggestions about getting on. So, I'm back to the old ref 'o' ring. I am however $100+ poorer and left with a not very substantial paperweight. jerry