Closing down my roasting hobby so don't need this behemoth any longer. Ditting KR804 upgraded with the Lab Sweet Burr set in 2021 from CAFELAST but very little poundage put through during the pandemic. Replaced the rubber transfer tube thing recently on advice from Ditting support as apparently they get a little perished and can block up as a

Here's a pick of my water analysis prefiltered. I've been using a BWT BestMax Premium but it's causing corrosion, little blue green floaties in the brew boiler water. I haven't sent off the filtered water for testing but my in-house test show a drop to 95 ppm TDS and 6.4 pH. I've got the filter set to the

Updated pricing to $415

Today, I changed to the Sylomer pad rated for 20 kg. Can't really tell a difference compared to the pad rated for 80 kg but theoretically, it's optimal now. And again, it's very, very quiet! Here's the pad I cut out if anybody can use the measurements for their machines: {image} {image} {image} {image} {image} which fits

Yes, definitely less transparent on the second photo. I cannot find a metallic piece inside the boiler that doesn't belong here that would cause the water discoloration. Question for y'all: looking at the picture of inside the boiler you can see some glossy reflection. Is this normal? or is this a sign some residual oil is still there?

With some coffees and some lever machines, the espresso tastes better. To me, that's a feature

Your machine is almost certainly made by IMAT, but with a Carimali label. (IMAT makes "white box" domestic machines that carry other labels {link} ) You can fit a standard ULKA pump, but I'm not sure if the input connector is the same. I don't know of parts suppliers in the Netherlands, but {link} has a good reputation. I'd

Hey! Yes, I've been adding the beans at around the 30-second mark. I've been finding it challenging with some Ethiopian beans as it's difficult to discern the first crack, but I've managed some flavorful roasts. Perhaps we should do an A/B test, dropping after 30 seconds versus at the start of the timer, to see if there's a noticeable difference

I used everclear grain alcohol as was suggested earlier on this thread. No idea if that removed all toxic oil. All I can say is that I haven't been sick since using the machine. It's just recently I realized after a week of use (maybe less), if I pour out the water from the boiler, it has that yellow taint

Well, I haven't done any rigorous testing, but it went like this: I was dialling in the machine for about 5 days getting pretty bad results (too long shots, vs too short, sometimes horrible channeling which made too fine grind look like it should go the other direction). Then 4 things happened on the same day. I started