May I know your retail version is it a special unit from your retail dealer ?

If the grinder lives somewhere where it can't be connected to the internet is there a way to manually update it with a usb/sd/laptop? My scenario is a job where the policy is "no personal devices on company WiFi". I'd rather not drag the machine back home just so it can update

I removed the auto-fill probe and worked for a day. Then back watery steam. Any advice?

Posts like the above is why Decent is a great company. Just saying. Brad

You need to find a way to make it to a showroom and try the LM machines. The old no burn wand on the GS/3 was truly terrible. The new pro-touch and cool-touch wands are in a class all by themselves. They are full-flow like the burn-me wands, but double layer, so the OD of the wand is quite large

May I ask why you didn't just return it?

A great deal. The reason for this is the amount of thermal offset between the boiler and the group. In an HX machine, you have 45-55 degrees of offset between the HX, which is at steam temperature, and the desired brew temperature. As was mentioned earlier in this topic, some manufacturers utilize a reatrictor in the thermosyphon tube(s) (usually

This sounds like a weird thing with your Artisan setup that some knowledgeable people here can help you sort out. It should mark at the time you mark it, no subtraction from turning point. Do you have it automatically mark charge (and reset the time to 0:00 at charge) when you put the beans in?

This wouldn't work at all, since the brew boiler is saturated. Any time a boiler is completely full, the pressure in that boiler is no linked to temperature, since any thermal expansion at all will take you all the way up to the expansion valve pressure. In this case, a pressurestat would not heat the boiler beyond lukewarm. There

I've done a little investigating and I see that it is a plug for the solenoid. If I plug it in, the solenoid seems to work properly... but what do the wires that WERE plugged into the solenoid go?! There is a red wire that goes to F4 on the gicar box, a white wire that goes to F2, and