I'm impressed by its heat retention and insulation. I got a good look at it at EXPO, but didn't hang around to try any brew on it. I also like the carafe design, it'll be very easy to clean. Plus it's feature set blows the Moccamaster out of the water

Just wanted to add in here, I have gone and gotten a 6-cup because I happened to look and they were on sale. I have found that making my grind coarser has helped a lot even with the 6-cup to get closer to a reasonable extraction time. I'm on about a medium-fine grind, the basket is full, and it's

Not sure what an ohm meter is but I'll look into it. Those are factory wraps but I'll certainly replace them. Thanks

Sometimes you can remove the needle and put it where it would be zero, I would use a needle puller to make sure you don't bend the shaft. There are other techniques. Is the back off so you can see inside? The horseshoe shaped portion is used to adjust the calibration. Another option. It might help to see how it

On my GCP I would run the brew switch after steaming to help cool the boiler back quicker and refill it. It staying hot and and blasting steam out is pretty normal If everything works but the light I would figure it to be a lamp issue. When you replace it you can look at the wires

So I just removed the dial and placed it at 0. The dial fell to the bottom which was in the 5-7 bar area. I think the gauge is toast unless there is something I can use to "stick" the dial to the post. I wonder if age has just expanded the plastic on the dial.

29 minutes long; - review of history for the first six minutes; - 12:23-14:00 for why cone burrs should/must wobble, a.k.a., was James Hoffmann wrong in his Key review? {video}April 1, 2011 announcement of the Pharos: "Pharos manual grinder by Orphan Espresso"

Fantastic. That was it. Face is off. So if I remove the dial and reset it to 0 that might do the trick? My thought is that if the actual gauge is stuck at 7 bar, then would the reading be accurate once I moved the dial? Or is there enough play in the gauge