Londinium R24 Lever for sale. 1) Bottomless, Wenge hardwood handle portafilter ($69.72) 1) Single spout, Wenge hardwood handle protafilter ($66.40) 1) Double spout, Wenge hardwood handle protafilter ($73.70) 1) 58.8mm Wenge hardwood LONDINIUM tamper ($88.53) 1) Wenge hardwood distribution tool ($43.28) 1) IMS filter basket, rated 18-20g ($15.09) 1) IMS 35µM shower screen ($15.09) 1) Custom tempere...

Oh, ok... I see. So you're saying leave the heat where it is until the midway point of extraction and only reduce it when you're near the spout or when extraction speeds up. Using the cool water if necessary until you get an idea of when to cut heat. The timer thing is because of how much The online world

Thanks for posting! I've got an early (#83) and a late (#1091) 1.0 and my daily driver, a 2.0. I always figured I'd convert 1091 to a 2.0...but I guess there are no more parts!

Finally got around to using my BIRD that I picked up from Doug at expo. It's certainly the most fussy method I've ever used to brew coffee. But, it's really a treat to use as well. Like most Weber products, and I have many, it's a beautiful object, and the attention to detail and materials are top-notch

Flow rate affects extraction. Too slow and you overextract, yielding flavors you described. Slight underextraction won't hurt much with a dark roast except with somewhat thinner body. No timer means don't overthink this. Get approximately adequate flow. Experiment by taste. You'll see flow increase toward the end and can decrease heat. That's something you'll need to dial

You could get one laser cut out of stainless. It would not have the taper on the slots like an oem, but would be sturdy and functional. One hesitation I would have going with stainless is the potential to chip the coating in the base

when you separate the two pieces, can see how it seals against I guess that white part (even had a red stain against it from the old oring for however many years). So I placed the o-ring on the valve so when you slip the top piece/nut back on to screw it, it seals. Like the nut, that

Interesting... where in the VB does a #007 o-ring go? In your bottom link it shows a disassembled anti-vac valve. That one has a white o-ring at the base of the plunger. Your photo has something red. If that is a silicone #007, it will wear and fail again because silicone is not specced for steam. This is

I did molykote the timing belt, as suggested. It's been a quieter (more than a little bit, but not dramatic) when the motor speeds up for the purge; and it stayed that way for the past few weeks. Don't know if it's permanent, or if the lube will need to be repeated