The solenoids were cleaned and replaced. They operate very smoothly. But the issue persists. I'm left to wonder if the coil on the brew-water solenoid is bad (fails to work once hot) or if the control circuitry is the culprit. The only thing that is clear, is that the machine works flawlessly immediately after heat-up, but

Which heating element did you end up buying? I'm looking to buy one just to have it as a backup since my current heating element is the same as your old one and I don't want to have the machine down if for long if it blows up

Never used an e61 machine, but from this forum I remember seeing LOTS of posts about soupy pucks. It seems that e61s tend towards wet pucka at end. Especially when down dosing. What size basket and dose are you using? Try dosing to get just a little space between the puck and shower screen

I enjoyed the Bolivia Geisha so much that I purchased the "Geisha Triple Pack - Competition Series". This past month was my first time ever trying a geisha and I can now say that I see why people love it so much. {image} {link}

Not owning one, but having looked at the listings, there seem to be many skus that look virtually identical. You have to know the power rating on yours. Less than 2000kva, it's possible you'll trip a breaker. It depends on your roaster. Awesome pics! Is that a custom case for the PID? It looks fantastic. Any chance the cover easily

Tnx all so far for the feedback. It is maybe this that I want to understand; "Stronger" puck that can for example hold a lot of bars but when the opv kicks it will brew at for example 10 bars and then the pressure will drop because of the puck erodes. "Less strong" puck, where the brewing

I am a newbie who had believed a perfectly uniform, dry puck was a sign of a well pulled shot. My machine (an R91) doesn't yield dry pucks no matter what I do. They are typically highly saturated, occasionally even soupy. I almost never get channeling. Conceptually it would seem like a highly saturated puck would

I too would go with an LED strip, a tiny transformer and a bridge rectifier

If the adjusting screw is no longer having any effect on the bypass valve there is something wrong. If it is working well, but you can't adjust below 10 bar, perhaps your pressure regulator isn't working (if plumbed). What does the line pressure show on the gauge while the machine is idle? Since it is still under warranty

Hello All, I have been doing my due diligence and researching. James Hoffman's video review of the Key was excellent. The logical initial question, posed by Pressino, has been answered. I have come to the conclusion that at this point in my espresso life, conical burrs are what is best for me. This leaves an