{image} Still learning

I'm sure you'd have noticed, but it bears mentioning that sometimes the rubber seals can come away from an old valve and be stuck in the group

I would make sure your tamper isn't bottoming prematurely giving you a false reading. It can happen since you are running in the bottom of the range for your basket. If you have a standard tamper give it a shot. Just push until you feel the coffee pushing back, if that fixes it you can decide where to go from

078 is clearly better built and more enjoyable to use overall. As for the flavor profile I think it's quite different from MPv1. Sure, they're both good brew grinders so if you've got a cupping set up they'll both likely be on the clean side in their own ways and easily distinguishable from something that's not. In a

The bezel may be crimped on. They can be kind of a pain to get off, you will want to go around the back side and lift the crimp gently all the way around with something like a screw driver, then it will slide off. Getting them back on requires re-crimping, you can do it with a set of pliers

Only distilled plus potassium bicarbonate. Machine has zero scale

{image} This is the gauge with its current position. Machine is off. I am still working on removing the face. Pretty stubborn

As opposed to the single circuit board Gicar RL30/4ess/f 120v, the Giemme R L 3 sonde has two boards connected by a ribbon cable, which might make repairs more difficult. One of my machines had a Giemme which just quit. I have a Gicar board in there now which is working, but I wonder if I

Without a schematic, use an ohm meter to suss out the wiring and make your own. Those tie wraps are TOO TIGHT around the wires. You run the risk of a meltdown and fire

16 g in 25-30g out is my normal shot. Steaming is very good at 1 bar where the temp is best for me. Even better at a little higher pressure Maintenance is almost nil but when you do need to change seals you need a piston removal tool. Then it is simple. All other maintenance