I don't understand what you're saying... I don't see anything that indicates a problem, in what you'e described. I don't think Boiler pressure (about 1.2 Bar) would ever leak into the heat exchanger (3 Bar to 10 Bar), leaks would go from high pressure to low. However, if the check valve was in backward and allowed absolutely zero flow

I'm puzzled how burr rotations can predict grind weight unless the number of beans fed into the burr at each rotation remains equal. This would seem to require a highly constant weight of beans in the hopper. It seems a long way away from single dosing territory

Thank you very much for your input. I am mostly using my DF83 with a couple of camperista mods and the SSP HU Burrs and I am slow feeding the beans. I fergot to mention it but I tryed the longer pulls as well, even 1:5 and I have to say not only the body and crema almost

Thanks Greg for the review. How do you think that the pico compares to it in terms of the features that you consider in the swan to elevate it as a grinder?

Please let us know how this batch turns out. I loved my first bag that was roasted in early March. Hoping that the more recent ones are back up to the original quality

The Quickmill range under $1000 doesn't seem to have much presence in the US but it's very common here in Europe

For sale is a lightly used Lido E from orphan espresso. I bought it late 2018, and primarily used it while traveling. Probably only seen 5 or 10kg of coffee over this time. The only issue is the rubber grip was lost during our last move, but it's still fully functional and a replacement can be bought for only $7.50

Dosing by burr rotations also takes ramp up/ramp down out of the equation. I can't see how time-based would be better than burr rotations, since burr movement is directionally proportional to output. Time has inherent non-linearity built in, which is fine once you've set a dose, but if the start/stop ramp is inconsistent, you'll get inconsistent output, even

Although I use a Decent tamper for my daily driver, I occasionally use a couple of beautiful regular tampers (with a tighter fit) that are more satisfying. I use my fingers and thumb to start the tamp evenly by feeling the edge of the basket. I have no plans to ditch these "conventional" tampers

I would assume that id has 2 reasons for stopping, the required torque drops to zero for a long time or the required torque stays at zero for a long time. I would guess if you feed slowly and evenly enough you hit the second trigger as feeding slowly enough might not trigger the torque has passed X and now