Re-greasing a Mazzer Super Jolly - collar binding

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
Ganymede
Posts: 23
Joined: 7 years ago

#1: Post by Ganymede »

Hi, everyone,

A single brainless move two mornings ago has resulted in a fairly intractable issue re-setting the adjustment collar on my used Mazzer Super Jolly.

In a moment of carelessness, I jammed the lower burr carrier. I then immediately pulled all the head parts off the grinder - I'm talking collar, top burr, bottom burr, and even the doser - in order to clear the obstruction. Amid my caffeine-free fervor, I had a second stupid idea: I would clean the unbelievably caked-up lower parts of the grinder with hot water and...cafiza. So I tossed *everything* into a bowl of hot water and cafiza, then scrubbed fairly well. Of course, when I ended up with a gray grease all over my fingers, I didn't think too much about it. I am, admittedly, a total dumbass.

Then the collar wouldn't screw back on, and jammed worse and worse the tighter I turned. Long story short, I have been through food-safe blender grease (the white stuff), one sheared-off adjustment rod and two bent M5 bolts, and am only just realizing that "cleaning" the gray grease off the upper burr carrier might have been the problem, since the harder I push down, the more torque it takes to continue turning the collar over that part.

If I can now unscrew that collar again without killing myself, what kind of grease should I use in there? Is it some kind of silica-based stuff?

jwCrema
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#2: Post by jwCrema »

I use Dow 111 mainly because I have it on hand for the Cremina and it's food safe. Others here have said SuperLube, and I've used that too. You don't need much.

Ganymede (original poster)
Posts: 23
Joined: 7 years ago

#3: Post by Ganymede (original poster) »

Thank you so much for the recommendation! I went on Amazon for some Dow 111 - trust Home Depot to lack such a common silicone lubricant - and used it on the threads and the part of the upper burr carrier that makes contact with the collar.

Unfortunately, I find I can't seat the collar in the body threads in any way that doesn't result in an impossibly difficult turn -- and the difficulty starts pretty much immediately. There are two places on the very top of the body threads where it looks like they've been galled - the metal is so darn soft - and I worry that, somehow, that spells doom for the grinder as a whole. I'm sticking up a couple of pictures of those two small dents. Does anyone might know if this spells death for my grinder or not? :(



belegnole
Posts: 440
Joined: 13 years ago

#4: Post by belegnole »

Hard to tell for sure, but that bit in the first picture is probably your problem. If my Jolly was doing this I would just carve that offending bit off.
LMWDP #641
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emradguy
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#5: Post by emradguy replying to belegnole »

Agreed. If you have a fine file, just grind it down, but be careful not to hit the next thread below it or your work will perpetuate itself. If you don't have a fine file, you can probably get one or a set at Rockler, Woodcraft, a jeweler's supply, Fry's, a good electronics store or maybe even Michael's or Hobby Lobby.
LMWDP #748

belegnole
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#6: Post by belegnole »

Personally it might be a bit tough with a file. But, then again I'm a semi retired jeweler. I'd probably use a graver, small chisel, or a utility knife if I were to use hand tools. Otherwise I'd use a flex shaft (dremel) with an inverted cone burrs or maybe a sanding disk. Basically anything that allows you to remove the bit that is in the way and nothing else.
LMWDP #641

Ganymede (original poster)
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Joined: 7 years ago

#7: Post by Ganymede (original poster) »

belegnole wrote:Personally it might be a bit tough with a file. But, then again I'm a semi retired jeweler. I'd probably use a graver, small chisel, or a utility knife if I were to use hand tools. Otherwise I'd use a flex shaft (dremel) with an inverted cone burrs or maybe a sanding disk. Basically anything that allows you to remove the bit that is in the way and nothing else.
Understood, thank you for the recommendation! So the point is to clear the thread path by grinding/cutting away the part of the galled thread above it that's intruding, without touching anything else. I expect a dremel tool will work the best given my relatively poor hand/eye coordination, but I'll look for small files also.

OldNuc
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Joined: 10 years ago

#8: Post by OldNuc »

There are thread chasing files that are designed to exactly match the existing thread pitch. First step is to correctly identify the thread pitch. You should use the correct tool to clean this up or it will only get worse. It is possible to accomplish this clean up with riffler files but you better get some practice on something that you can throw away. That body is seriously dinged up and aluminum on aluminum will bind and gall everytime until cleaned up.

A dremel tool is going to be too quick cutting to do this easily and the cutter will not have the proper shape. This is a hand work job with the proper tool.
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Ganymede (original poster)
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Joined: 7 years ago

#9: Post by Ganymede (original poster) »

OldNuc wrote:That body is seriously dinged up and aluminum on aluminum will bind and gall everytime until cleaned up.
I hear you loud and clear. I was honestly a little shocked by how soft the body threads and burr chamber were. I don't quite understand why such a heavy-duty grinder would be made with such a soft metal.

OldNuc
Posts: 2973
Joined: 10 years ago

#10: Post by OldNuc »

That aluminum construction is an issue as those threads are a common failure point. The good news is they can be cleaned up if you can find the tools.

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