I see the problem. On my Linea, the probe enters from the top and therefore makes estimating levels much easier (and the sightglass makes estimating unnecessary). I keep my boiler 2/3 full. By the look of the picture and the rendering, it seems your boiler is designed to be maybe 1/3 - 1/2 full.

erics wrote:That rendering is nice, for sure - much thanks to you for linking it and Bill Crossland for posting it. BUT, that rendering and your pic don't "jive" unless my eyes are failing.

No, it's not a perfect representation, but it accurately depicts the probe from a functional standpoint.

For those who might be curious, while the probe in the rendering extends through the lock nut outside the boiler and bends down 90 degrees, ending in a spade lug, the actual GS/3 probe extends straight out of the lock nut a very short distance and is terminated by a spade lug that's bent down about 45 degrees.

Also, there's white teflon tube throught both nuts that encases the probe. You can just barely see it in the photo. I believe it's there to insulate the probe from the nut.

Again thanks to all for the great info and advice. Good results so far. The machine is operational and I tried all the basic operational conditions at least once this weekend:
- pulled shots
- steamed milk
- pulled hot water from the wand
- backflushed

There is no water accumulating outside the machine. I am going to do all of the above again after completely powering down and, as Dick recommended, I will power up and try everything with the side panels off and see if I can see anything suspicious.

I may still do the vacuum breaker "upgrade" for prevention since I've been powering up/down the machine for the last year. Dick -- have you done this yet? What's the degree of difficulty?

Thanks.
-Randy

rstaudinger wrote:I may still do the vacuum breaker "upgrade" for prevention since I've been powering up/down the machine for the last year. Dick -- have you done this yet? What's the degree of difficulty?

I haven't been able to do the upgrade yet. I'm still waiting for my replacement logic board and vacuum breaker.

Not sure about the level of difficulty. It's easy to remove the vacuum breaker itself. I've done that several times for cleaning. You have to remove the back cover to get at it and of course you need the correct metric wrench.

But looking at the most recent parts manual, it's not just the vacuum breaker that has to be replaced. The existing elbow fitting that connects the boiler to the new vacuum breaker assembly is different, too, because they've added a check valve that screws directly into the boiler. I don't know what the function of the check valve is, but my guess is that it prevents water that's accumulated above the vacuum breaker from getting back into the boiler when the breaker is open.

I think the only parts of the job that might be tricky are getting the old elbow fitting off, making sure the new parts don't leak, and adding the T-fitting to the OPV drain tube (it's tight in there and it'll take some thought to decide exactly where to place the fitting.)

I will try to remember to take and post some photos of the job.

Dick,
I think it would be OK to use your existing elbow. LM changed this part because the current elbow is hard to get lined up properly. The new method allows for adjustment. I don't think the new fitting is a check valve. It is probably a 1/4G Male to 1/4G Male fitting. Very similar looking to the check valve however.


BillC

Having not seen any pictures of the electronics box I decided to pull mine out this weekend and
see what could be done to keep water out. I now see this is a poor design as the electronics
cables follow the tight space between the steam boiler and straight into the top of the box. Any water
leak inside the machine would most likely end up following the cables into the electronics. Here
is a top view of the box with it pulled out from the back of the chassis.
This next photo shows a small hole that is drilled at the lower edge of the box, if you look closely
above the drain hose you can make it out. My machine was produced 02/11 and possibly this is something new to allow any water that would enter to drain out.

Dick, does your machine have this hole? I was able to see this by looking under the machine
from the front with a flashlight.

In this photo with the box opened up the hole is barely visible at the blue capacitor in the photo.
My GS3 does have the new vacuum breaker valve and it is likely to solve the majority of
possible leaks inside the machine.

The box appears plastic.
How hot do the SSRs get when starting from cold?

How hot does the capacitor get when the machine starts from cold?

My OPV failed to seal properly about 6 months ago - fortunately without any flooding. I just did a vinegar soak and it's been fine since. At that time I purchased a new, improved OPV valve and have been holding on to it until the current one acts up again. However, the cost and hassle noted for a new CPU board has given me "religion". I guess I'd better replace that OPV valve as soon as I have the chance.

Dick, you showed the labeled probe side GS/3 photo from GS3Cafe and noted that the steam boiler temperature probe is angled to the right instead of pointing straight down. Since that is my machine, do you recommend that I adjust that to point down or is it better to leave well enough alone?

Billc wrote:Dick,
I think it would be OK to use your existing Elbow. LM changed this part because the current elbow is hard to get lined up properly. THe new method allows for adjustment. I don't think the new fitting is a chack valve. It is probably a 1/4G Male to 1/4G Male fitting. Very similar looking to the check valve however.

You're absolutely right. The parts list says it's a 1/4" nipple. I must have misread the list.

I see how the new elbow makes it easier to line up. If the new parts fit the old elbow, I may use it instead because it's already there and well sealed. I think the decision will be governed by where the valve, right-angle barb and drain tube end up in relation to the top cover and various parts in the vicinity.

danetrainer wrote:This next photo shows a small hole that is drilled at the lower edge of the box, if you look closely
above the drain hose you can make it out. My machine was produced 02/11 and possibly this is something new to allow any water that would enter to drain out.

Dick, does your machine have this hole?

No. I was told the hole was added in later revs of the machine. The person I spoke to said it was under the large hole where the cables enter the brain box, but your picture shows it in the logic board compartment. This makes some sense -- water falling on the large cable opening would likely wick along the cables into the logic board compartment, and the hole is placed close to where it might fall, and it looks like it would allow water under the board to drain out.

But I still wonder about the placement of the hole. Seems to me water hitting the top of the box could run down the front of the box into the hole. It might make more sense to drill holes in the bottom of the box. There's no obstruction underneath the box.

I have to think about it some more, but I think I'll drill a few holes in the bottom of the box, one under the cable opening, one where the hole in your box is drilled, and two or three more under the logic board. The main consideration will be to avoid weakening the structure of the box.

As I said in my OP, water probably came in via the screw holes. The cables and the relay/capacitor compartment were dry. That's why I think some holes under the board would be a good idea. I'll also seal the holes with tape.