I have a VBM Domobar Super HX in the manual lever version with water reservoir. Is there a way to make this a direct connection machine, with a plumbed water line?

As I understand it there are three versions of this machine:

1. Manual, water reservoir, and vibratory pump
2. Electronic, water reservoir, and vibratory pump
3. Manual, water reservoir with direct connect option, and rotary pump

It's not clear whether I can purchase a direct connection kit to retrofit my machine - does someone know the answer?

Thanks for the assist. The VBM owner's manual and online reseller sites aren't clear on this.

--SO

Way back when HB was new, I did one of my first articles on how to plumb in a tank machine. 2005 vintage.

Quit Filling That Water Tank!

I added a float valve to the water tank with just a few hardware store parts. Ran it that way until I sold the machine

You can direct plumb but it can be complicated depending on how you go. Outboard rotary pump or vibratory with solenoids, regulators, etc... can get busy quickly. I just wanted quick, simple, reliable and inexpensive.

Converting a pourover espresso machine to direct connect

Good to know tank machines can be plumbed even if they don't have a kit for it. I'd still like to know whether there's a kit for this one.

[quote="cannonfodder"]Way back when HB was new, I did one of my first articles on how to plumb in a tank machine. 2005 vintage.

Quit Filling That Water Tank!

I added a float valve to the water tank with just a few hardware store parts. Ran it that way until I sold the machine

Your best bet, I think, if you want to be able to plumb in is to go with a rotary pump tank that has the plumb in option. Those machines should come with a plumb in line, typically braided stainless steel, with the line side adaptable to the thread of the country it's sold in. From there you need a line pressure regulator and any good water filter system to control water hardness and quality like a softener and carbon filter set up. It's not hard to set up with a pex line and John Guest fittings and if you have a faucet near by you can tee off of the cold water shutoff to avoid cutting into a water line. Even if you have to cut into a water line teeing off is easy with push connect fittings. No soldering or clamping required.

The extra cost for a rotary pump, IMHO, is worth it for the steady flow, pressure output adjustability, quietness and the plumb in line pressure preinfusion capability you get.

I would suggest doing everything, if planning to do it at all. Otherwise, just buy a machine that's plumbable and save yourself the hassle.

By everything, I mean buying a motor and rotary pump to be mounted somewhere under the counter, installing a water softener assembly down there, too, and a drain with a p-trap.
Mounting the motor to a heavy steel plate and gluing that to a soft rubber mat greatly reduces the noise it will make under the countertop.

Why do "everything" or why do it the right way?
Simply plumbing it through its vibe pump will allow water into the machine with the pump not running, a vibe pump is just a pair of check valves, so you'd need to add a 2-way solenoid valve at least and preferably a pressure-reducer, while cheaper than "everything" it's just the bare minimum... If buying a pressure reducer, why not a proper softener/reducer assembly?

Thanks, but this is the machine I have. I just need to know whether it can be plumbed with a factory kit or not.

mrgnomer wrote:Your best bet, I think, if you want to be able to plumb in is to go with a rotary pump tank that has the plumb in option. Those machines should come with a plumb in line...

In a nutshell, yes
there is no factory kit
but we make a kit,
so are other vendors as well.