I've been able to dig out some info on this SSR. A WLL tech person sent me this picture and some data suggesting that "You'll want one 20A max 240VAC on the load side and 4-32VDC on the input side."




If you search of a KS35 you'll get thousands of hits, a search for D-24Z20N-LQ will show one on eBay that looks just like the picture, sold for $131 (WLL charges $28 when they have them), beyond that nothing.

If anyone has a clue where to buy these things, please share your info.

Go to digikey.com search for solid state relay, then use their available filters to narrow it down to the ones that fit your criteria...
I went in to make sure they have some and got this far, but I have to go:

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/fil ... 4sGAJ4sJQA

I hope that link gets you started.

sunny wrote:
I did get into a chat session with a tech at WLL and asked about these SSR. He said in fact will it is a "solid state" relay, there was a small moving part on the inside that moved back and forth and apparently this is the part of the item that fails. Oh Well.

Um... That's just not true. Solid state relays are just that, solid state. They use a pair of transistors acting as electronic switches.

sunny wrote:I've been able to dig out some info on this SSR. A WLL tech person sent me this picture and some data suggesting that "You'll want one 20A max 240VAC on the load side and 4-32VDC on the input side."


image

If you search of a KS35 you'll get thousands of hits, a search for D-24Z20N-LQ will show one on eBay that looks just like the picture, sold for $131 (WLL charges $28 when they have them), beyond that nothing.

If anyone has a clue where to buy these things, please share your info.

I like to order electronics from Mouser - Here's a link to something that should work. It's a bit higher current handling, has compatible voltage handling on both control and load, and is the same hockey puck form factor.

The problem is that the Euro version is 220VAC at 5 amps and the US is 110VAC at 10 amps. The teeny weeny SSR that Profitec was able to fit into the teeny weeny space left over from the retrofit design changes from the pressure stat version burns up at the higher current. I took a $12 SSR bought on Amazon, bolted it to the stand that holds the water reservoir and wired it in with a crimp kit. It almost fits to the frame but not quite. That would be a little more pro for an installation. You don't have to cut the wires in case you want to put in the original at some point. Forget the thermal paste, it doesn't get hot. It's been working fine for a year and half. Granted, this whole situation is BS for a brand new $2K espresso machine but C'est la Vie.

amazon relay link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079B ... UTF8&psc=1