Slowing down a seemingly hyper active PID heater controller - Page 2

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cafeIKE
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#11: Post by cafeIKE »

Inspections are often bogus. Our house got a report of minor dry rot on one window frame. $26,000 later to fix dry rot, water leak in the crawl space and an open heating duct in the attic reality matches the report.

If the house was built in the 90's it's highly likely the circuit is daisy chained with outlet quick connections rather than the screw terminals. Add in probably stripped before painting and there could be several dodgy connections. Couple that with PRC [Peoples Republic of ChinaPretty Robust Connection] outlets and there could be significant drop.

It's fairly straight forward to fix, but if you are not experienced / comfortable, hire a competent electrician.

tracer bullet (original poster)
Posts: 147
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#12: Post by tracer bullet (original poster) »

I'm a pretty good DIY-er, I can handle outlets. Not a bad suggestion, I'm sure the outlets could use some updating and perhaps the breaker as well. I've seen a mixture of the screw terminals and push-connects around the house during previous work. I think at a minimum I could, yes, change to screw terminals as needed. It is indeed likely to not be the first outlet on the chain.

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pizzaman383
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#13: Post by pizzaman383 »

Is the one light the only light that dims? If so, check the connections of all the switches and outlets on that circuit.

If other lights dim have an electrician come and inspect the breaker panel. I ended up having a power meter base and breaker panel that had arcing that melted connectors. When the electrician was inspecting the panel he and I saw an arc flash. Luckily we acted before it caused a fire. Unluckily it cost quite a bit to replace everything. I have since replaced most of the 35 year old switches and outlets.
Curtis
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