Rancilio Silvia with PID overheating issue - Page 2

Need help with equipment usage or want to share your latest discovery?
dottest37 (original poster)
Posts: 10
Joined: 5 years ago

#11: Post by dottest37 (original poster) »

What is the SSR and how do you check it?
(Thanks for the suggestion by the way)

dottest37 (original poster)
Posts: 10
Joined: 5 years ago

#12: Post by dottest37 (original poster) »

My Silvia is V3 , with Auber PID.

Paolo
Posts: 550
Joined: 17 years ago

#13: Post by Paolo »

It is a Solid State Relay. It does the switching on and off of the mains voltage to the heating element.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solid-state_relay

The Auber one looks like this:-
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main ... ducts_id=9

You could locate the SSR in your machine and swap it over with a new one.

dottest37 (original poster)
Posts: 10
Joined: 5 years ago

#14: Post by dottest37 (original poster) »

So, I finally had the time to check the machine.
Look what I found when I opened the boiler:



You can see the internal coil touching the outer layer, that was causing a short with the whole boiler, etc, I wonder how I didnt get electrocuted while touching the chassis.
This design might need improvement from Rancilio, maybe some sort of protection if voltage is detected on some parts, or perhaps a mounting mechanism for the boiler that keep it insulated from the chassis with ceramic or something else. This kind of shorts could lead to nasty accidents.

Nevertheless, I put a new heating element, like this:



It was a good opportunity so I replaced the Brew head filter and gasket and cleaned everything inside out, machine looks like new.

I didnt need to replace the SSR, but I bought one just in case.

Thanks for the help guys!
Back to brewing and frothing now.

Bluenoser
Posts: 1433
Joined: 6 years ago

#15: Post by Bluenoser »

For protection against shocks, the 3rd prong on your electrical cord (assume this is North America?) should be connected to the internal chassis parts. You should be able to touch the outside metal on boiler and the 3rd prong of the plug and measure 0 ohms. Then if anything "hot" (110V with respect to ground) on inside touches any part of chassis, it goes to ground first through the 3rd prong before it goes through you. (And should blow a fuse). That's why it is important to ensure you plug it into a receptacle that is 3 prong and wired properly.

dottest37 (original poster)
Posts: 10
Joined: 5 years ago

#16: Post by dottest37 (original poster) »

I guess that explain why Im still here :D
I wonder what caused rupture this dramatic on the heating element.
Maybe sudden high voltage? eventhough no breaker went off and no other electronic equipment at home suffered anything.

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