I've searched a lot and can't find an answer as to what can be causing my problem. As soon as the machine is plugged in (even with the power turned off) the GFCI trips. If I remove one of the blue leads from the Hi-Pressure switch it'll power on and everything works (short of the boiler).

Here's the part where I screwed up. It first tripped and stopped working when I went to adjust the P-Stat... with it powered on.

I know the obvious thing is that the pressurestat is fried, but it seems a little too obvious. I let a buddy borrow my fluke and am without a multimeter, before I go buy a cheap multimeter from homedepot I wanted to check and see if there's a chance that it's anything BUT the p-stat considering the stupid thing I should've known better than to do.

If the GFCI is tripping with the power switch on the machine physically turned off it sounds like you've got a short. I wouldn't plug it in any more until you have it sorted out.

I owned an Anita for a number of years, it's not a super complex machine but i'd start by tracing the circuit using a multimeter from the power cord. There's a terminal block at the base of the machine right near where the power cord enters the machine. It's difficult to suggest anything other than that.

This sounds like a dangerous situation until you have it resolved.

This may help:



When you say "Hi-Pressure switch", are you describing the safety thermostat or the pressurestat?

Some Quickmill machines were assembled with the line and neutral reversed at the terminal block. While this would not be the cause of tripping the GFCI, it would make some components "hot" with the power switch off.

Safety Thermostat. I unplug the blue lead that goes from the boiler to the safety thermostat and the machine starts up no problem (obviously without a working boiler).

Then, I would bet a dollar to a snoball that your terminal block is mis-wired and that your safety thermostat is at fault.

To test this, you would disconnect the two leads to the safety thermostat and make a "jumper" with two male spades and a short piece of 14 gauge wire.

Yeah, looking at my terminal block the leads coming in are White, Black, Green (White to Brown, Black to Blue, Green to Green/Yellow). My line and neutral are swapped.

Edit: Just fixed the terminal block, i can plug it in without tripping the breaker, as soon as a flip the switch to turn it on (and start the boiler) the gfci faults. Pulled the two blue leads off the Hi Limit switch and jumpered them together; gfci faults when I turn it on. I guess that means my fault is elsewhere.

All this started when I stupidly adjusted the pstat while the machine was powered, I'm noticing there's oxidation (rust) on the side of the pstat closest to the boiler that wasn't there the last time I opened up the machine and rewrapped the boiler.

I'm thinking that I fried the pstat.

Do you have the three position power switch?

I guess that means my fault is elsewhere.

Yes, but I can't see how the pstat could be at fault. What pstat do you have?

The typical fault is the heating element and that can be easily tested by powering it up manually with some female spades and a power cord . . . maybe with a simple light switch wired in.

I have adjusted many, many pstats and NEVER saw the need to have the machine OFF. The advice given many times to do so is a valid safety concern for someone who has not done this often.

Two position power switch (just open/closed). I was assuming it was the pstat because that's what I was screwing with while it was powered up; I thought there was some other reason to not adjust the pstat when it was on other than general shock risk associated with tinkering with anything powered.

At this point when I flip the power switch with everything connected the 4/A2 bulb lights up momentarily then the gfci faults.

Same result if I unplug the pstat and jumper the common and normally closed leads. Obviously shorting normally open just turns on the green ready light.

Only thing that looks off on the bottom of the boiler is a ton of scale buildup around the boiler plug

Only thing that looks off on the bottom of the boiler is a ton of scale buildup around the boiler plug

The you obviously have a slight leak which needs attention at some point.

What pstat do you have?

Test the heating element as I suggested.

Sorry, It's a Ma-Ter pstat.

I think I have a bigger problem, I went to pull the plug to put descale it and put on some teflon tape and it snapped clean off