Pump/shot timer restarted mid shot? - Page 2

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TallDan

#11: Post by TallDan »

I'd make sure. I'm no code expert but I don't think it's all kitchen outlets, just those within a certain radius of the sink. You will have a test button on any GFCI outlets, hit all of them in the kitchen, if your machine is still on, it's not GFCI protected.

dsc106 (original poster)

#12: Post by dsc106 (original poster) »

Confirmed, on GFCI.

I hit the "test" button and power dropped to everything on the outlet, hit reset, back on.

dsc106 (original poster)

#13: Post by dsc106 (original poster) »

** UPDATE **

I opened the machine and, as suspected (or worse than expected) the plastic "T" joint that joins the 3 tubing pieces (seen @ 9:15 here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3IHsA_y1n8) together was completed busted. Which means it was just spewing steam into the machine. UGH! The piece was brittle and brown, with a piece of it left in each of the 3 plastic tubes where they join. Shining a flashlight down, I can see some residual water at the bottom of the machine. There is some wiring down there - such as the near the switch which flip-flops the machine between water reservoir and water line. And obviously, near by is the brew lever on/off switch and the pump pressure gauge.

This explains why I was finding more water around my machine in the last couple weeks. It wasn't enough to suspect a leak, I thought I was just getting sloppy with my stuff because I was fiddling with the flow control more. But nope, it must have been causing moisture build up from steam release and then slowly leaking out the bottom. For a couple weeks.

1. How robust are the connection points here for the wires? I don't believe the control boards where impacted since ECM shields them off to the side pretty well. It would likely just be the terminals such as the brew switch and bottom switches. If dried, and if working without issue... A-OK? Is there likely any 'real' or 'permanent' damage from this leak?

2. I'm not very happy a cheap brittle plastic piece is used to connect the tubing here, it's only been a year and the thing split?! Wow. That's a major oversight and failure point.

3. This doesn't rule out the vacuum relief valve being bad, does it? What I mean is, sure the hose connection T joint is broken, but all that indicates is any steam over pressure will release into the machine as condensation, right? It doesn't "answer" the problem of why the steam boiler has been ping ponging and hissing a bunch, no?

4. Bit of a repeat of #1 but more comprehensive... Due to the premature failure of this part, and the (potentially significant) leakage inside, the other concern would be so much moisture causing rust in electrical leads and/or degradation of electronic parts/wiring, rust in general, etc. that will result to more problems down the road. Should I press on the vendor for a full warranty replacement of the unit, or for a more thorough repair of internal parts, or is an internal leak like this likely a "no harm no foul" situation?

So... my theory may be right... busted relief valve causing excessive steam release through tubing, wears out T joint prematurely, which then results in internal steam condensation leak, which then interacts with pump switch?

I think a T joint replacement + vacuum relief valve replacement are very easy to do? If so, I could do that replacement. If there is no reason to suspect more problematic damage I should be able to move along and be up and running again?

dsc106 (original poster)

#14: Post by dsc106 (original poster) »

I believe these are the two parts I would need/want to ensure, however, they are both out of stock here. And the vacuum breaker rebuilder isn't the "complete" vacuum breaker piece manufactured by ECM. I'd rather have a full ECM one to make it even easier for a few dollars more. Anyone know if these are correct and if so, where else I could order them?

Profitec / ECM Plastic T Connector
https://clivecoffee.com/products/profit ... and-repair

Vacuum Breaker Rebuild
https://clivecoffee.com/products/vacuum ... and-repair
(Ensure this is compatible with newest ECM model for 2.5 bar pressure in steam boiler)

JRising
Team HB

#15: Post by JRising »

The QuickMill equivalent of that really crappy blue plastic fitting is less crappy metal:
https://www.chriscoffee.com/products/barbed-t-connector

And this is the same as your vacuum breaker, I believe... If the picture looks correct:
https://www.chriscoffee.com/products/va ... aker-valve

SandraF

#16: Post by SandraF »

Where did you buy your machine? I bought my Synchronika from Clive in PDX and it has a warranty longer than 15 months. If you bought it new, the warranties are usually 2-3 years. Maybe call the place where you bought it and discuss with service department?

dsc106 (original poster)

#17: Post by dsc106 (original poster) »

Thanks, I will check in on the warranty, it may be longer after all.

I found this old thread: Profitec Pro 700 maintenance vacuum relief valve

I wish I could bump it to add my 2 cents but in short, I have to agree with some of the (strong) sentiments expressed here. Baffles me that a plastic junction tee is used in leu of a $5 stainless steel junction tee. It would have prevented this whole thing.

Sure, that tee is not suppose to get used much because the vacuum valve and brew boiler OPV is rarely utilized. But the price is negligible, and given my experience, it is very easy to see how a chain reaction can happen:

1. Little information and guidance on the need to purge steam boiler water on a frequent basis to prevent mineralization to concentration - even when filtered and very low TDS. This should be a front and center fact since scale build up is a big enemy. It's inexcusable that this is not part of general care rhythm such as backflushing and made very obvious to the consumer.

2. In light of 1, high potential for Vacuum Relief valve to fail open due to mineral content and start venting excessive steam, putting high wear on junction tee and causing premature failure. This is a huge issue as many users leave their machines on, and will cause steam to, essentially, constantly vent into the interior.

3. Internal moisture can cause electrical issues, gauge issues, etc.

Had a better junction tee been used, the only problem I would have experienced is too much power use and constant steam venting until I noticed. Instead I had this fiasco.

Hey, maybe it's no harm no foul. Maybe that internal moisture did ZERO damage or corrosion/rust to the internal parts in just a few weeks. Maybe I am all good? Either way, that plastic junction tee is inexcusable in a $3,000 machine, as is the lack of guidance on regular purging of steam boiler water.