Profitec Pro 700 Pump Won't Stop
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Acorazza
I have a Profitec Pro 700 that has recently been having an issue so right now it been taken off the counter until I can get it fixed. The other day I went to pull a shot of espresso and the pump didn't switch on right away. So I turned it off and tried again but I got the same thing. I don't know if it was electrical like the switch not clicking or mechanical where the pump just had a hard start. On the third try it started right up but now it wont turn off. The only way to stop the pump is to turn off the machine or physical unplug the pump from the circuit board. Needless to say, I can't use the machine right now. I also tried removing and unplugging the physical switch on the switch side but not the circuit board side and it did nothing being unplugged. The pump still ran.
Has anyone had a similar issue or any idea on how to fix the issue?
Has anyone had a similar issue or any idea on how to fix the issue?
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JRising
- Team HB
Is it maybe trying to fill boiler? If you take the wire off the boiler fill probe and ground it, does the pump stop?
If this is the case (trying to fill boiler, but never filling it so never stopping), there may be a clog or the boiler-fill solenoid may not be opening. What does the pump gauge show? If it's over 8 bar, then the pump's trying, but something is blocked. if it's down around 1.5 or 2 bar, it may actually be filling the boiler, give it more time and see if it overfills or what the next issue is.
If this is the case (trying to fill boiler, but never filling it so never stopping), there may be a clog or the boiler-fill solenoid may not be opening. What does the pump gauge show? If it's over 8 bar, then the pump's trying, but something is blocked. if it's down around 1.5 or 2 bar, it may actually be filling the boiler, give it more time and see if it overfills or what the next issue is.
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Acorazza (original poster)
I don't think its trying to fill the boiler. I manually opened the solenoid to fill the steam boiler until it filled up completely and I actually had to drain some out. Also if I lift the brew lever, water comes out so I'm pretty sure the brew boiler is also full. Also the machine is designed so that the pump will not run if there is no water in the reservoir but the pump keeps running even without the reservoir in place leading me to believe its a different issue. Also the machine has flow control if it makes a difference. I forgot to mention before.
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cafeIKE
Sounds like a controller issue. How old is the machine? Where is the controller situated related to the boilers? Are both boilers always on?
I recently returned from a 3 week RV trip and flooded the counter when I turned on the machine and went out to unpack. 15 year old controller had died while being off
I recently returned from a 3 week RV trip and flooded the counter when I turned on the machine and went out to unpack. 15 year old controller had died while being off
Ian's Coffee Stuff
http://www.ieLogical.com/coffee
http://www.ieLogical.com/coffee
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Acorazza (original poster)
That's what I was afraid of. I can handle mechanical repairs but the non-mechanicals drive me nuts so I will probably bring it in for service. The controllers are on the side of the steam boiler behind a heat shield. The machine is about 6 years old but the steam boiler is not always on. I would say about 50% of the time its on and it was on when this happened but I have to say that I don't see any evidence of heat damage on or near the controller.
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BaristaBoy E61
Have you tried physically disconnecting 1-side of the levered pump switch?
Disconnect the machine when modifying or measuring components or circuits!
Disconnect the machine when modifying or measuring components or circuits!
"You didn't buy an Espresso Machine - You bought a Chemistry Set!"
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Acorazza (original poster)
I unplugged the entire thing. Should I try to disconnect one at a time. If its just a switch I can order and install myself but I don't want to throw parts at it if that is not the issue.
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BaristaBoy E61
Unplugging 1-contact from the pump switch would indicate if it's the switch that's defective.
Do you own and know how to use a digital multimeter?
Always unplug the machine before doing component testing!
Do you own and know how to use a digital multimeter?
Always unplug the machine before doing component testing!
"You didn't buy an Espresso Machine - You bought a Chemistry Set!"
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Acorazza (original poster)
I tried unplugging the switch on both sides one a time and no change so I believe the switch is fine. I can borrow a multimeter from a friend but is there anything that I should look for or is it most likely the control board at this point?
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JRising
- Team HB
Almost certainly powerboard.
I suppose you could prove it by un-plugging the pump wire from "Pompa" on the powerboard, but you've ruled out the switch, so it's pretty much known.
You could go deeper and test the relay on the powerboard, itself. Remove it from the machine, test it for continuity through the pompa relay, test the pompa relay's coil with an external 12VDC source, etc. just to know how and why it's failing on top of knowing it's failed.
If the relay has simply failed closed and you're steady with soldering, you could try to replace the component. If the logicboard side of the Gicar is at fault, it's much trickier.
I suppose you could prove it by un-plugging the pump wire from "Pompa" on the powerboard, but you've ruled out the switch, so it's pretty much known.
You could go deeper and test the relay on the powerboard, itself. Remove it from the machine, test it for continuity through the pompa relay, test the pompa relay's coil with an external 12VDC source, etc. just to know how and why it's failing on top of knowing it's failed.
If the relay has simply failed closed and you're steady with soldering, you could try to replace the component. If the logicboard side of the Gicar is at fault, it's much trickier.
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